M-ZT 52 Review

I hear you Mark, and it's too bad that some transactions go off the rails. As to justifying our M-ZT 52 purchase, we recently acquired a place with lots of grass -- pastures and lawns. The local landscaping maintenance service providers were quick to advise that we buy ourselves 'commercial grade' equipment, and suggested we budget $10k. Not having had any lawn mower since a Brill (German-made push reel mower, I kid you not) about 10 years ago, I was enthused at the prospect of riding gear, but the cost shocked me. So, I started the websearch, found this website (among others), hemmed and hawed, licked my finger and put it in the wind, closed my eyes and thought about throwing a dart, and finally decided on the unit mentioned by the OP.

The fact that it was orange and so is our Kubota tractor is not a key factor, but it did occur to me, plus a Sweden-born co-worker praised me for supporting his native country when I disclosed the upcoming purchase during our ongoing "chainsaw safety" discussions -- he being my mentor in that respect.

I'm hoping the M-ZT 52 will be more than good-enough for a homeowner with lots of grass. Heck, the local grass cutting outfits charge us $300 each occasion, and suggest that we should ideally mow every 7-10 days over the 6 month growing season. Geez Louise, that is $1k per month in grass cutting fees. (When I later realized these outfits -- and Caveat Emptor -- base their fees on $50 per hour, I became highly agitated...) I've convinced myself that we will actually make money on this investment, and my wife is stoked to take on these kinds of chores too after she had such fun using the Kubota and RCR to tame one of the pastures. Other than grasshoppers landing all over her, she said it was fun. In a tractor forum, I read about swarming yellowjackets after running into/over their turf. I guess we'll probably have various experiences along the way, but the satisfaction of doing it ourselves, riding a mower that can go almost 10 mph, and "saving" $300/mowing should be a worthy trade-off. If the mower lasts 2 seasons, we'll be money ahead.

I can hardly wait to get/try the thing, and we'll be sure to post a review from our totally-inexperienced view.

I would like to give my experiences with this mower as well. As a "side job" I do about 10 lawns a summer, a mix of several contract commercial properties and some residential. I have been doing this for 10 years or more now. I bought my mower new last season, 52" and with the Kawasaki FS651v engine. I benchmarked against an ExMark Lazer Z mower. Clearly, the MZT is not quite in the same class, but that doesn't make it a bad mower. Basically, the Exmark has a superior deck, and superior hydros, and larger (dual) fuel tanks, and larger rear wheels. The Exmark deck is better equipped to prevent scalping and it rolls stripes into the lawn much better (due to full rollers, of which the MZT has none). It may have better spindles as well. The twin fuel tanks are nice, but has nothing to do with how well a machine mows. The custom Parker hydros on the Lazer Z are exceptional. You can get a bit more speed out of the Exmark.

On to the MZT: This is a nice machine. As others have mentioned, the chassis is very stiff and strong. The hydros on this unit are a good quality, and are found on some more expensive machines as well. They are a bit noisy...who cares. The actual cut quality is very good. The electric clutch is pretty heavy duty; comparable to the Lazer Z. One nice feature are the very wide front caster wheels. The foot deck lift works as well as any. Complaints? Sure, the hour meter is barely readable from most angles, and only turns on when the PTO is engaged. I like to get total engine hours, including idling, not just cutting hours. The rear wheels could be one size taller.

For those worrying about the difference between the B&S, Kawi FS, and Kawi FX: it basically comes down to price. Kawasaki engines have developed the enviable reputation of running long hours in commercial use applications. They also are more stringently rated on output of HP and torque (i.e. their "Critical Power" rating system). Because of this, they can charge more for their engines. They do have some more advanced features like V-valve, and better filtration, more oil capacity, etc. My guess is that the Briggs engines are fine. The Kawi cyclone filter is definitely superior to the one on the Briggs. BUT, the Kawi FS (what comes on the MZT) does not have a cyclone filter. It is true the Briggs engine makes a little less torque, and probably doesn't have as nice of valve covers, and less oil capacity, etc...but will run for a very long time. Chances are the Kawi engines will run longer before needing a rebuild. Who cares? Does it cut your lawn and do a nice job? That B&S engine will probably run between 500-1000 hours before needing a rebuild. Most people here will never achieve that. The Kawi engines might go 1000-2000 hours. Usually, most mowers are pretty beat by those hours and its time to replace the whole unit.

Kawi FX vs FS series: Virtually no difference. The FX is marketed as premium, and uses the cool mushroom head air cleaner. The FS uses a 2-stage more compact air filter. End result? You need to clean or replace the air filters more on the FS engine than the FX. Note, however, you can easily retrofit the FX air cleaner to an FS engine. The engine blocks are identical. The FS allows Kawi to price the engine a little cheaper. I'm putting about 100 hours a season on my MZT and I clean the air filter every 25 or so. So no big deal.

Side hills: Its funny, most lawn mowing "pros" use zero turns. These things, in general, are not good on sidehills! The front end slides downhill. You also tend to rip up the turf trying to overcorrect by adding more speed to the downhill wheel, not realizing its spinning. Wider rear wheels help some, but the fact is, you have no control over the front casters and they do not help to keep the mower on the sidehill path. I also mow with a 2003 Simplicity Legacy 60" tractor. This thing is far better on sidehills. (It also has a much nicer deck than the MZT). Most "pros" think you're kind of low rent if you mow commercially with a tractor (even a $12k tractor like the Legacy). The fact is that the tractor rides more comfortable, is far easier on the turn, is nearly as fast, and is infinitely better at mowing a sidehill. The downside is maneuverability.

Long story, but I do like the MZT, several things impress, and it is commercial grade.

I bought mine with the Kawi engine last June from SPE in NC - the local guys couldn't even come within a mile of their price, even shipped! My only gripe with that deal was the fact that it was obviously left outdoors for a length of time, judging from some minor surface rust here and there, and pollen stains all over it where rain had pooled. Should have had the plastic on it in the crate, but mine did not, unfortunately. Only cosmetic, so if that saves me $1,000 over the local guys, so be it.

If anyone decides to go this route, you need to check every single nut, bolt and fluid level before running it the first time. I couldn't wait to mow with it, so I just greased everything, checked the oil and hydro levels, and went at it. After accumulating about 4 hours on it, it suddenly began to shake and make noise - I immediately killed the blades. Good thing, because the bolt had backed off one of them! No damage since I reacted fast. Another issue I had was a loose right-side hydro control, which made steering back to the barn real fun. Lastly, the round plastic ball on the throttle kept falling off. I think I glued it back on with super glue - can't remember. Either way, this all could have been prevented with a once-over after uncrating.

Other than these minor issues, the thing has been GREAT!! Miles ahead of the homeowner John Deere lawn tractors I've owned (L100, then an upgrade to a G110 ... which blew a head gasket on it's Kohler at 160 hours!) in every way! Does a beautiful job on the lawn. This unit is the first one in my 12 years of owning this place that I haven't bagged, and you can't even tell! It just blasts the clippings out with such force, that they all disperse! AMAZING. The belt is 3/4" thick too, to spin those things with authority. Compared to a homeowner unit, this thing is an absolute ANIMAL. A tank with blades. :laughing:

The only gripe I have with the unit is due to the EPA. This thing isn't as easy to start as my older machines were, thanks to the ridiculous emissions requirements. I don't even want to get started on that B/S, or this will turn into a rant .... but ...anyway ...

Full choke is SUPER rich, but, the pilot circuit is mega LEAN for emissions ... so there's a fine line between choke and throttle opening to get the right balance. No such issues with the old adjustable carbs from the good ol' days, or even with my newer John Deere models that were all built this century. I'll probably work my magic with the carburetor at some point - no reason any engine should be difficult to start. If they don't start in 2 seconds of cranking, then it needs fixing, which it shall get. :wink:

VERY happy with the deal I got, and the bang-for-the-buck value this thing delivers. I had been waiting for an affordable z-turn that could mow at 10mph, and when I found the M-ZT my dreams came true! Husqvarna hit it outta the park with this one. :thumbsup:

I slapped some cheesy "lee-press-on" plastic mags, sort of as a joke. At some point I'll throw them away and have the OEM wheels powder coated. Z-turns all should have chrome mag wheels, IMHO. :laughing:

I've noticed the starting issue on mine as well. Never a problem once its warmed up; only on cold start. I'm not sure if its emissions as much as poor carb / choke tuning. My understanding was that the EPA standard for these small engines hasn't been revised since 2006 (could be wrong). I have an 2008 ExMark with a similar Kawi v-twin which starts pretty effortlessly. Now I'm just wondering if mine will start up after sitting in (very) cold storage since the end of last October. The battery didn't look too impressive.

It's hit or miss these days. Sometimes you get one that ends up being perfect, as it sounds like your Exmark is. 98% of them that leave the factory are on the ragged edge of engine-melting lean. Whenever you have a starting issue these days on a new machine, it's due to lack of fuel - every time. Just a 1/4 turn or less (sometimes more) of the fuel screw (after you pry out the brass plug) is typically all they need. You'll be amazed how the engine responds to just a little more fuel. Engine will run a little cooler (although you wouldn't notice without monitoring it with a infared thermometer), start MUCH easier, and last longer.

Been doing that on motorcycles, and everything smaller for years. People bring me bikes that take FOREVER to warm up, hiccuping and bogging whenever you try and give it too much throttle. Just a little tweak of the screw and it's like a new machine. Lawn equipment is no different, although it's less noticeable since the throttle is normally in a fixed position most of the time.

It's worse here where I live, due to the ethanol they dilute our fuel with. Most people don't realize, even though the pump SAYS 10% ethanol, it can vary widely between 10% all the way up and over 20%!! An already lean tuned engine will just about melt, and be REAL tough to start at 20% content. BAD bad bad .... I could rant about this all day, but I'll stop now before I get my blood pressure up ...yet another way our government legislates stress into our lives.

Yeah, I hear you. Carb tuning is an art, and its becoming a lost art. I spent hours getting my old '99 Polaris snowmobile carbs "right" at the start of this last season (Although running well, I still can't make the thing get better than 9mpg!) Fortunately my other sled (and my bike) are EFI, so no issues whatsoever. Ethanol may work OK in cars, but can be a big problem for small engines. I clean the carbs on my old sled yearly, and usually on my snowblower, pressure washer, etc about every 3 years.

Yep -very true. I've got a '74 RD350 2-stroke I ride all summer long, with the dual point system and brushed rotor charging system. The only modern addition was a combined rectifier/regulator I installed when I restored it. Everyone cringes when I mention points ... but this thing starts FIRST or SECOND kick EVERY time (I have MANY hours of tuning the pair of carbs to get it perfect ..), and I've put thousands of miles on it without an issue ... except the time one condenser popped out of it's holder, making it run pretty bad above 4,500 RPM. Pulled to the side, and with basic hand tools and a plethora of trash alongside MA roadways, I was able to peel part of a Coke can, wrap the condenser, bolt it back in and be on my way. That was 4 years ago - the Coke can piece is still in there. :laughing: I love simple machines. Wish I could trade my '07 Silverado for a '69 El Camino - I'd do it in a SECOND. At least I can fix the Elky when it breaks. :smile:

I also have a mid 60's 2k watt generator with a nice Briggs engine on it. One of the EASIEST starting engines I own. I swear you could start this thing with a broken arm, one pull. Ahh how I long for the pre-emission days ....

I like old machines you can still fix, but I think what you'd really like is to keep your '07 truck AND get the '69. The problem for me, anyway, is that when the newer stuff is all working great, its actually pretty nice to drive or operate.

Well ive got 5 hours on mt MZT52 and it has done good, I developed a terrible rattle but turned out to be the removable pins in the rops bar. I have thought about taking the bar off being I just use it on my lawn and don't have any really scary areas, and none of the home versions even have them. I hit a brick and cut it in half and hit some roots too so I thought I must have ruined the blades so bought the Oregon gators, they seem to work good but they were not as heavy duty as the stocks which to my surprise showed only a very tiny amount of damage, I mean one or two swipes with a file brought them back to like new. So now im trying to learn how not to leave tire marks. if the yard is damp its very hard not to.

35 hours on mine. Failed to start once, would not even crank over, ended up having to jumper out the solenoid so I could get it loaded and get home. Never failed since then, go figure. I did notice the back side of my deck belt looked a little roughed up, found the idler pulley sitting at an angle due to a loose bolt. Hopefully it has not hurt the belt very bad. I still think my cut is not too great, got to run really slow to get a good smooth cut, dandelions it knocks over if not going slow.