Ignition Timing - 14hp Kohler

stuckinnj

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I have a Cub 1450 w/a K-series 14hp Kohler that I just replaced the points. Setting them to .020" causes excessive spark knock/ping when the engine is fully warmed and under load. I reset the point gap to .013" which eliminates the ping. Starting is slightly harder w/the reduced gap. So my question is, which component is most likely worn that is causing the timing to be so far advanced with the points set at .020"? I'm hoping it's the push rod (cam to points). Or am I mising something else?

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

KennyV

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I also have a 1450... The problem is a lot to do with fuel..
That Kohler engine calls for Premium fuel... It will run on less octane but it will get a ping when hot under load... Try it with points at 20 and high octane... :smile:KennyV
 

ILENGINE

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The .020 setting is for initial startup. The final point setting has to be done with a auto timing light according to the timing mark on the flywheel, or for more pain staking work you can use a ohm meter and set the point opening by trial and error.
 

noma

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Ilengine

I think they make a addative that you add to the gas for more octane in your fuel maybe that would help, it should be a little cheaper then premium gas
 

Michael

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The .020 setting is for initial startup. The final point setting has to be done with a auto timing light according to the timing mark on the flywheel, or for more pain staking work you can use a ohm meter and set the point opening by trial and error.
Cant figure this one out, When setting timing with a lite where do you make the ajustment????:confused3:
 

KennyV

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Cant figure this one out, When setting timing with a lite where do you make the ajustment????:confused3:

The only variable is the point gap... set it where it starts and runs best ... I have always shot at 20 ... but I have only changed points on that engine twice in 35 years... the last set, that is still working perfect, has been in it since 1986... :smile:KennyV
 

ILENGINE

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for michael


there is a small hole in the side of the blower housing that you observe the timing marks on the flywheel. there is a tdc mark and a mark for setting the timing that is before the tdc mark. I usually mark the flywheel with a yellow paint stick to make it easier to see. while the engine is running you shine the timing light in the little hole and slowly move the points with a flat head screwdriver until the mark passes the center of the hole. or disconnect the wire going to the points and hook a ohm meter the spot that you removed the the wire and the other end to ground and slowing move the flywheel back and forth over the timing mark and vary the point gap a little at a time until the points break continuity just as you pass the timing mark observed through the blower housing.
 

stuckinnj

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Thanks all for the feedback. I need to go dig out my timing light (probably sitting w/my dwell meter) and knock the dust off. Adjusting the timing by the point gap reminds me of my youth and hot rodding. Of course back then you could mess withthe mechanical advance to get the power curve you wanted.

So I'm setting @ .020" as a base line. Start engine, and at idle no load, adjust the point gap to set the timing. As soon as it stops raining (Friday) I'll try this. Based on this method, I may not be fall off at the current setting of .013". I cuious once it is set properly if the startig will improve.

I've owned this 1450 for 15 years and this is the first set of points I've replaced. I only replaced them due to getting a splurge of energy and pressure washing the engine and chassis. Points were pitted/transferred material and the moisture created a no start condition. I use this machine for all sorts of pasture & property maintenance. It's unstoppable. I use it more than my JD 4310 or RTV.
 

KennyV

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I use this machine for all sorts of pasture & property maintenance. It's unstoppable.

The older Cub Cadettes are GREAT..
If you are getting transfer from one side of the points to the other ... that is usually indicative of a condenser failing, did you change it along with the points?
The point change is, I believe trial and error a little at a time, with the engine not running... I don't think you will be able to move the points while the engine is running... can't remember trying that... At least not since doing it on Chevy engines through the door on the distributor, Ha ha don't get to do that very often any more... :smile:KennyV
 

ILENGINE

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you dont completely tighten the screw holding the point setting and while it is running watch the timing mark while moving the points with a flat tip scredriver inserted into the notch in the points holder and twist the screwdriver slowly to adjust the points when you get them set turn off the engine and finish tightening the point screw, I do it for a living and have done it several times.
 
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