Cub Cadet blowing fuses

bwestbrook

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Have a cub model 1515 that keeps blowing fuses while it is running. It does it at only an idle. The two red wires going to the fuse both get extremely hot within about 30 seconds. The initial problem was hard to start. It has non adjustable valves. I have 12.6 volts at the battery and battery side of solenoid. On the starter side of the solenoid I am only getting about 6-7 volts. Tried another solenoid and same thing. Cleaned all terminals no difference. Tried jumping straight to the starter still hard to turn over. What else can I check?
 

reynoldston

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I can't understand what the starting circuit has to do with blowing fuses if it is blowing fuses when it is runing?
 

bwestbrook

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From what I understand this fuse is on the wire going from the ignition switch to the starter. Not 100% though. This wire becomes extremely hot while the mower is idling and fuse pops. Would the starter be drawing that much power and then not disengaging causing that wire to overheat?
 

Rivets

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Doubt it has to do any thing with the starting system. Does it occur when you have the PTO engaged? Follow the two hot wires and see where they go. Sounds to me like you have a short that only happens when the engine is not under torque. A wire is coming in contact with a ground as the engine slows. Look for a burnt or cut wire. Could also be a bad ground, corroded or loose.
 

bwestbrook

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I will check that. But here's the thing. Something is drawing too much power somewhere when I try to start it and the starter has a hard time turning the engine. Well this same starting system that is having problems that I can not find is also the same system the fuse is on. I know what you are thinking. The starting system is only to start it then it is bypassed while the unit is running. Well that would mean my mower was doing what it is supposed to do. But it's not. Whatever is causing the starting system to be weak is also causing the fuse in the starting system to blow. It is only doing when it is running. Yes it will do it when PTO is engaged but also when it's not. It has everything to do with the starting system since it is part of the starting system. I just don't know how to pin point it.
 

bwestbrook

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Could it be a short in the switch that is still causing 12V to go to the fuse?
 

KennyV

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It is not the starter that is fused...

It is likely you have a short in the key switch OR in the wires From the switch in the Run circuit.
If you do not have excessive current with the key in the On position & engine Not running, then you have a situation than has a frayed wire touching the frame when the engine is shaking at idle... :smile:KennyV
 

Rivets

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Kenny is right check all the wires. I just reread your problem and this could be caused by a bad solenoid. You should be getting more than 6 volts off the starter terminal. The pull in coil could be bad allowing for current draw while running. I would also replace the key switch. Don't get frustrated. Electrical problems on tractors drive all of us (who are supposed to know what we're doing) to drink and sometimes it just takes a little luck and a lot of time. While your checking the wires, also check every connection for corrosion and being loose.
 

bwestbrook

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Y'all are being extremely helpful. I think I am over thinking the problem. Haha. Wouldn't be the first time. I will check the voltage in the run position with it not running. Just so I will know because I am trying to learn as much as I can....what exactly is fused? Doesn't it come from the switch? Where does it go for sure? Again thanks. I will check it in just a little while. I brought it to the fire station with me today.
 

bwestbrook

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Checked and there is no spike in voltage. Everything that is supposed to have 12V in the run position has 12.4 volts. Now this is a 3 post solenoid....the small terminal is a ground right? I know it is grounded to the frame but was curious about the small terminal.
 
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