Shop tricks and tips

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benski

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• Oct 3, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #21

Giles said:

Thin metal can be cut with a hacksaw if you install two blades into the frame with one backwards (NOT UPSIDEDOWN) The opposing teeth will act like a file--slow, but has worked many times for me.
Of course, in most cases, metal snips, nibblers, and abrasive blades are used for this, but some special circumstances call for this procedure.:thumbsup:
The correct blade, for cutting any thickness of metal, is to have at least two teeth in contact with the material during cut. Since I have never seen a hacksaw blade with that many teeth, this is as close as you can get.

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That's something I've never thought of, but I'll bet it beats a single bladed approach.!:thumbsup:

 

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benski

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• Oct 5, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #22

One more. If you've custom-drilled a fastener to put safety wire, cotter pin:frown:, or a hitch pin through, mark the orientation of the holes with a file, hacksaw or grinder on the head of the fastener. This will give you at least a place to start when you're putting whatever keeper through the hole. Also, chamfer the hole slightly at both ends to ease starting the fastener.

 

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benski

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• Oct 6, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #23

I'll throw another one on the pile. If you are putting a bolt into a hole that you can't reach by hand and using a socket and extension and the fastener keeps falling out, try this; sometimes a dab of heavy grease will keep a fastener from falling out of a socket, and if that doesn't do the trick I've taken a strip of some notecard paper and wedged the nut or bolt into the socket. All this in the abscence of a magnetic insert. Of course, a magnetic insert isn't going to help you much if you're dealing with a non-ferrous fastener..:wink::biggrin:

 

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jamesslcx

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• Oct 7, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #24

Hey this ones pretty old but if you run out of antisieze you can substitute liquid antacid on threads, it works just as well.

 

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benski

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• Oct 9, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #25

jamesslcx said:

Hey this ones pretty old but if you run out of antisieze you can substitute liquid antacid on threads, it works just as well.

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Wow! And here I thought I was the only one who kept that handy in the shop!:biggrin: Of course it's usually the mower that prompts me to use it for myself, instead of using it on the mower..:wink: Great tip.
One mower, uh, more.:ashamed::smile:: If you've got an adjusting bolt somewhere on your equipment that is prone to rusting up badly, you might trade it for a stainless one. Failing that, I'll take either some anti seize or grease, pack the exposed threads, and then slip one of those plastic bolt protectors over it that are available at the hardware store. They come in different diameters, and they're cheap. A piece of old fuel hose will work sometimes for the smaller bolts, too.

 

BKBrown

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• Oct 9, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #26

When you have a pair of latex or nitril gloves on for a while and your hands are sweaty - it is hard to get them off sometimes - I put an air nozzle in around the cuff and the air expands the glove all the way to finger tips making it easy to get them off (without turning them inside out) . :thumbsup:

bakerg said:

If the project is really dirty, I put on latex glove to keep the hands as clean as possible.:thumbsup:

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jamesslcx

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• Oct 9, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #27

Great tips guys! benski I am under so much stress lately I think I'll get my antacid by the case! Hey I have always heard that if you had to install a part that was a very tight fit you could pop it in the freezer for a few hours it would expand and then you could slide it right on?!???

 

BKBrown

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• Oct 9, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #28

Wouldn't something put in the freezer contract (unless it was water) ?

 

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jamesslcx

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• Oct 9, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #29

You may be right BKBrown, although when I was a tech a "few" years ago at the local Pontiac- Olds dealership we had to replace a lot of the fiber timing gears on the 2.5 liter GM four cyls. because of noise and we always froze them so they would just slide on easily. Back then I knew a lot of tricks to save time but now rigor mortis of the brain has set in and my memory aint what it used to be.:laughing:

 

Grass ala Mowed

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• Oct 9, 2011 / Shop tricks and tips

• #30

Freezing shrinks parts that go inside another part and heat (think kitchen oven at 350-400 and wear gloves) expands parts that go over another part.

Personally, since I have an air compressor and an impact wrench I prefer to use it for many disassembly jobs if the parts have been together for awhile. Just saves effort and reduces the chances of rounding off the heads. Clean before reaasembly, add lube/antiseize as dictated and use hand tools to tighten. I've used the impact wrench to remove a vacuum cleaner impeller nut and a well pump impeller nut rather than try to jam/lock the motor shaft.