1971 Wheel Horse 800 Special

BKBrown

BKBrown

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Everything turns over easily and the valves open and close properly. I turned it over a few times while the head was off to clean out valve seats. There was a spark. Next is clean out the fuel system and get an air cleaner. It will need a new fuel filter too since the old one was so brittle that the ends broke off inside the fuel lines when removing it. As I said the gas cap is also missing - I'll need to find someting that fits.
I'll want to drain the oil and see if there is water in it - it will get new oil anyway. I knw it was parked as scrap, but who would take the gas cap off ?????
 
BKBrown

BKBrown

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Here is another update - got the choke and throttle cables moving.

I figured out that this engine came with a generator and starter, but they are gone. Took out the needle valve that is accesable without removing the carb bowl and cleaned it plus used compressed air and carb cleaner in that jet + put a short piece of tubing on the carb inlet and put carb cleaner in it. Sprayed a little starter fluid in air inlet and pulled the rope -- got a pop (it actually fired once) letting it set with cleaner in carb. More later.
 
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KennyV

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Sounds very promising .... You can make a temporary gas cap, using aluminum foil.... once that is the last item you need, finding a cap should be no problem.... :smile:KennyV
 
BKBrown

BKBrown

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Thanks Kenny,
I know it is possible to short out the plug (like they first did) with a spring steel piece to the top of the plug, but that would require lifting the hood. There is still a dash switch, but all the starter / generator wiring is just dangling there. What would I do to short out the coil ?
I will probably need to take the carb off and clean it, but hope that won't be necessary. It will be a pull start, but J.R. is still able to do that kind of thing. :thumbsup:
Thanks again,

BKB
 
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KennyV

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You can make a kill wire lead by connecting to the primary windings of the magneto where the points are) and run that wire to a standard Magneto type key switch... That type key switch has a post that applies ground in the OFF position ... it will essentially short out the points when you go to OFF...

The other type Key switch removes 12 volts from the powered coil when you go to OFF.... :smile:KennyV
 
BKBrown

BKBrown

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Thanks Kenny,
That is what I figured, but never actually did it before without old wiring there or a wiring diagram. I've got to find the points (it shouldn't be hard).

I might just put in a simple toggle switch for RUN and OFF
 
BKBrown

BKBrown

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Update again - Gas line in and it will fire and run on Starting fluid. Will probably end up taking carb off and cleaning it. Right now there is SeaFoam in the gas and I'm waiting to see if MAYBE that will open up anything in the Carb.
 
BKBrown

BKBrown

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Don't know if anyone is interested, but decided to repower since parts for the old engine would have run more than a new one. I was advised that the 150117-0123-B8 would replace the 190434-0638-01 8 Hp Briggs.
Got the new engine and will be able to place it so the pulleys line up, BUT there is no wiring diagram and no instructions or harness came with it and the connectors don't match the old harness.

I'll put in an email to the place I ordered the engine, but since it is Sunday, won't expect an answer soon.

Any Ideas ?????

 
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KennyV

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BKBrown said:
[
Got the new engine and will be able to place it so the pulleys line up, BUT there is no wiring diagram and no instructions or harness came with it and the connectors don't match the old harness.


I'm sure you have found this parts breakdown : Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 150117-0123-B8

They have the ignition system, and charging system... looks like that engine comes with a shut off key switch so you could relocate it on the tractor or extend the wiring... The kill circuit is a simple apply ground to stop engine and remove ground to start...
If you get a generic key switch you need one made for a magneto engine... it will have a ground wire to the switch position #1 and the kill wire attaches to position #3... in the OFF position those are connected together...

Position #2 connects to Lighting, Carb solenoid (if it has one), and any other accessory needing 12 volts and Position #5 is the key Source of 12 volts, it is wired to the Large terminal on the starter solenoid that has the positive battery cable. When the key is in the ON position #2 & #5 are connected.

Position #4 wires to the small terminal on the starter solenoid... When in the start position #2, #5 AND #4 are connected... Of course that position on the key switch is spring loaded so when you release it it returns to the Run position....


The charge wire from the regulator goes to the Large terminal with the positive Battery cable onthe starter solenoid....

I would fuse the "charge wire at 20 to 30 amps, depending on the alternator size... and also fuse the 12 volt supply to the key switch, with a 10 or 20 Amp fuse depending on the total lighting and other accessory load...

I will copy this to your PM & your running thread... It might help someone else wire an engine....
I will also try to find a wiring diagram or schematic, that 'may' make this easier to follow... I just checked the terminal layout on a switch I had laying around... When I find a proper link I'll post it both places... I like rewiring, it is not as complicated as it might seem, good luck & let me know if there is anything I overlooked... :smile:KennyV
Click to expand...
 
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KennyV

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I found it...
It is labeled alternator replacement guide... BUT it has all the wiring for various briggs AND the necessary alterations needed to go from one wiring harness to another....
Not too hard to follow, starts out with basic electrical but gets into specific applications as you drill down....
Find it at: http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_replacement.pdf

Seems like I came across this once before.... this time I'm going to save a copy of this pdf to my computer... can't have too many sources.
Oh and I double checked my wiring layout I gave you for the switch... it's good so you shouldn't have any problems...

As to wire gauge I like larger wire .. always works better.... Like you said the factory wire size from the solenoid to the starter is marginal at best... :smile:KennyV
 
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