Hey everyone,
I have an older Hustler Zero Turn with a Kohler MV20 in it. I was in the middle of mowing the yard last weekend when it simply stalled me on. I checked the fuel level (it was good but I added more anyways) and my filters and that fuel was was in the carb bowl but it would not re-start. Pulled the plugs and they were wet. It would just crank but not start. Now this happened once last summer on a 90 deg like we had last weekend when I was mowing and I towed it back to my garage and after it cooled it started right up. So I figured it just vapor locked on me again like it had last year. Towed it back to the garage and let it sit a couple hours and no dice, will not start.
I started with the usual, checked that fuel was still getting to carb, checked that carb wasn't gummed up. Pulled plugs and turned engine to clear cylinders and then used a tester to check for spark and nothing. So after discovering no spark I checked the ignition module per the tests in the manual and sure enough it failed and I ordered a new one.
Got the new one today and installed it, checked the ohms per the manual test, all was good. Hooked up the spark tester and had spark (definite improvement over last weekend) so I put the engine back together and tried to start engine but it will not even puff like it is about start, just cranks. I tried to adjust the gap (though there is very little adjustment that can be done) and it has made no difference. I rechecked the ohm's per the manual and they are still in the "good range". Re-checked for spark=still good. I checked and cleaned my air filter and checked for blockages anywhere, so at this point I have air, fuel and spark but the engine won't fire.
On a whim I tried to turn it over once last time and it started, but then wouldn't shut off via key. That was when I realized I hadn't reattached the killswitch lead. So if it runs with the killswitch lead off but not on, what should i be looking for?
Thanks
I have an older Hustler Zero Turn with a Kohler MV20 in it. I was in the middle of mowing the yard last weekend when it simply stalled me on. I checked the fuel level (it was good but I added more anyways) and my filters and that fuel was was in the carb bowl but it would not re-start. Pulled the plugs and they were wet. It would just crank but not start. Now this happened once last summer on a 90 deg like we had last weekend when I was mowing and I towed it back to my garage and after it cooled it started right up. So I figured it just vapor locked on me again like it had last year. Towed it back to the garage and let it sit a couple hours and no dice, will not start.
I started with the usual, checked that fuel was still getting to carb, checked that carb wasn't gummed up. Pulled plugs and turned engine to clear cylinders and then used a tester to check for spark and nothing. So after discovering no spark I checked the ignition module per the tests in the manual and sure enough it failed and I ordered a new one.
Got the new one today and installed it, checked the ohms per the manual test, all was good. Hooked up the spark tester and had spark (definite improvement over last weekend) so I put the engine back together and tried to start engine but it will not even puff like it is about start, just cranks. I tried to adjust the gap (though there is very little adjustment that can be done) and it has made no difference. I rechecked the ohm's per the manual and they are still in the "good range". Re-checked for spark=still good. I checked and cleaned my air filter and checked for blockages anywhere, so at this point I have air, fuel and spark but the engine won't fire.
On a whim I tried to turn it over once last time and it started, but then wouldn't shut off via key. That was when I realized I hadn't reattached the killswitch lead. So if it runs with the killswitch lead off but not on, what should i be looking for?
Thanks
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