JD L100 Click no start

ZRXDean

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Hi LW, New Guy here.

I am at my wits end with my L100 mower. It will click and not start. Here's where I'm at so far:

12.6V at the battery - Charge good
Secured battery ground wire
New solenoid - 12.6V at both lugs
New Starter motor - 12.6V at the + lug

Sitting on mower, in neutral, blades disengaged I get "click".... no crank.
Jumping the posts on the solenoid - spark, no crank. Slight movement out of the starter gear but not enough to engage the flywheel.

Any idea what else to check - Safety switches, etc.....

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
 

bertsmobile1

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Pull the spark plug and see if you can rotate the engine by hand.
If no then remover the rocker cover & check that the pushrods are present.

If they are then there are 2 possibilities.
1) something has come loose in the engine
2) something magnetic has gotten under the flywheel and is jambing it.

If you can rotate the engine by hand try the starter motor again.
 

TJR345

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Something is not completing the circuit.Pto switch and brake switch should be checked.How old is the battery,volts may be good but no load (cranking amps) when starting.
 

bertsmobile1

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Something is not completing the circuit.Pto switch and brake switch should be checked.How old is the battery,volts may be good but no load (cranking amps) when starting.

IF the engine will not turn over when the solenoid is jumped then better than average chance there is a mechanical problem in the engine.
 

ZRXDean

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Engine turns over by hand and also ran and cut fine before the "click no start" condition appeared. Engine has no mechanical issues.

Battery is about 2 years old but sat since middle of last summer. I put it on a trickle charger but it won't come up to fully charged (green light) but will give me 12v on my meter....

How do I bypass the safety switches to determine if they're the problem? I assume there are three (brake, ROI and Seat)?

I have a new battery from another mower I'm going to put in. Weak cranking amps sounds like the next thing to check. It's definitely a circuit issue - I'm getting current all the way tot he starter but perhaps not enough to actually crank it to engage the flywheel.
 

bertsmobile1

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OK.

read your post with the brain turned on this time.

SO you jumped the two heavy terminals on he solenoid and the starter did not turn.
IF that is correct get some car jumpers hook the + to the starter + terminal and the - to the drain bolt.
Turn the ignition switch to the on position.
Now hook the jumpers up to a known good battery .
If the starter does not crank the engine then the starter is bad.
By doing this you have bypassed all of the mowers wiring.
IF the fuse is good then the engine should start and continue running when you remove the jumpers, if the parking brake is on & PTO off.
 
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Dean did you take the spark plug out and try spinning it over ???? If it does then your electrical is not bad or your battery....

I think your valves may be out of adjustment.....

Bert gave you some great advice......

There is a method a lot of us use on here.... Most of us own shops and do this for a living.... We come here on our own time giving free advice......

Bert said to take the plug out and see if it would turn over freely...... That's the 1 st thing to do..... If a lot of gas and/or oil comes out then you WERE hydro locked..... Hopefully no fire started because the plug was still in the plug boot......

2nd thing is to put the plug back in and then see if you can start it with the key....... If no see # 3

3rd thing is with the plug in see if you can rotate the engine by hand, getting past that hard point of rotation..... That will be your compression stage...... If you can get past that with your hands then you have an issue with your valve settings.....

That is one of the most common problems on this forum beside a thrown compression release on the cam..... Or a ETHO screwed up carb........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
 
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