Briggs & Stratton Lawnmower Starts for one second then shuts down

Hi,

My mower starts up, but then quickly shuts down after one second. I've done the following:

• Used carb cleaner to clean out main jet holes.
• Used starter fluid to try to get the mower started.

There is a crack in the primer bulb, but since I'm using starting fluid, does the crack in the primer bulb matter? If I attempt to use the primer bulb, no gas gets pumped into the carb.

One additional clue...My mower initially shut down after 20 minutes of mowing. I haven't been able to get it started again.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what I might check or try doing? I've ordered a new primer bulb so that I can rule that out as the problem. I'm thinking of taking the carb off and cleaning it.

Thank you,
Scott

AS you have to take the carb off to replace the primer bulb you may as well clean it properly see http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ sor detailed photo instructions.
Apart from that and replacing the gaskets I can offer you little cause you gave us very little to work with.
Briggs make millions of engines every year and dozens of different ones with primer bulbs.
Without the engine model & code numbers we are stumbling around in the dark.

I've started cleaning the carb. But I'm not seeing anything unusual as far as plugged holes or anything is concerned.

Engine is on Toro lawnmower and it's a 6 hp Briggs & Stratton. Model is 12H802-1767-B1. I think the mower is about 12 years old.

Now waiting for primer bulb and gasket set for carb.
Hopefully this will do the trick.

Is there a way to determine if gas is getting to the cylinder or not? I'm assuming gas is not getting there because the engine stalls, but if I could verify that gas is not getting to the cylinder, then I'd be able to look at why. Is it possible that gas could be getting to the cylinder but still have the engine stall?

Thank you
Scott

For fuel to get in, exhaust has to get out.
At this part of your season it is common to find mufflers pluged with whatever decided that it was good winter residence.
Next the inlet valve has to open to let the gases in and the exhaust valve has to open to let the gasses out.
As the carb is now off, pull the valve chest cover off and confirm they are moving, common for them to get a little rusty in the off season and get stuck.
With the inlet valve open fully, remove the spark plug, and spray some of your favourite goop up the inlet tube then look . feel listen or smell to see if it comes out the plug hole.
If it does the inlet is working.
It is also common for the long plastic inlet tube to crack so you might like to pull it off and check it.
When you put it back, use a new gasket and put 1 and only 1 drop of blue or green locktite on the bolts.
Do not over tighten them the holes are easily stripped.
From memory you need to remove the coil to remove the induction tube ( manifold to some ) so that will need to be rest to .010" from the magnets.
Do not clean either the magnets or coil.

SSA Bert gave you some great advice ............... I made a video last year about your air box and primer bulb....

Did your engine start back up after letting it sit for a while ???? If yes then it is one of two things........ Fuel or a coil going South on you...........

The fuel part can be as simple as a clogged vent on a gas cap or a fuel line going bad on the inside of it.......

The coil part is it's getting hot and breaking down with heat..... No mouse nest under your air shroud I hope ............

Ok enough talk about that stuff .... Here is the video link .... I did make a video yesterday about ETHO gas but you'll see that one on my channel.....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

https://youtu.be/iuIWIC6NjF8

I did the following and the Toro 6.0 Briggs engine is now running, but the rpm are too high.

• rebuilt the carb
• replaced the spark plug
• replaced the air filter
• replaced the primer button

There are only two holes for the throttle linkage, one has a small orange gasket in the hole and the linkage doesn't fit in that hole. So I don't see how I could have screwed up the linkage. Is it possible that giving the mower a tune-up caused the rpm to increase?

Also can anyone recommend a tachometer that they like? My understanding is that OSHA recommends a max of 19000 feet/minute on the blade tip.

Any and all responses are appreciated.

Thank you,
Scott

Put the governor linkage in the wrong hole. Rookie!

We have all done , just some never admit to it.
Good work now go mow.