DYT 4000 2004

I bought this mower from one owner with 235 hours. Ran great for about 10 hours There was excess oil dripping from the crankcase hose to the carb. Oil level was correct. Sputtered on and off and then stopped. Would not start. This was 11/17.
4/18: I Emptied gas tank and put fresh fuel in. Put new carb on. New fuel pump.Battery new. Good spark on plug. If I shoot a shot of Starter Fluid in she runs a few seconds and then stops. She does the same thing with the new parts as with the old. The engine cranks very strong. The fuel filter has a little gas in so I assume gas is pumping into the carb? I put seafoam in all my gas when I purchase it. Is it possible the ignition module needs replaced? Would she run on Starter Fluid if the ignition was bad? She is the 18.5 HP model. Thank you for any advice. Pochie

What is the model number of the engine. We don't know if this is a Kohler, Briggs, Kawasaki, Honda, MTD engine, so we need you to explain what you have so we can give correct answers to your questions.

I will get the information back on today.

ILENGINE said:

What is the model number of the engine. We don't know if this is a Kohler, Briggs, Kawasaki, Honda, MTD engine, so we need you to explain what you have so we can give correct answers to your questions.

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2OO4 DYT 4000 CRAFTSMAN SINGLE CYLINEER 18.5 HP
MOWER MODEL: 917.273638
ENGINE: 31P777 BRIGGS & STRATTON INTEK PLUS
TYPE: 0348E1
CODE: 04 0627E

I got her running. I blew in the gas line until bubbles came out, then sucked to start the gas coming out. The only other thing I could think of was that the fuel pump hoses were on the wrong places. In cranking the engine there was much suction on the hose leading to the engine top (PCV). So, I switched hoses and that was the problem. Now there should not be virtually any oil leaking from the hose...as when I got it. So, it was hooked up wrong when I acquired the mower.
Now I have to adjust the idle and mixture on the new carb. What a nice feeling to have her running correctly. My grass is mostly 16"+ tall as I haven't been able to cut since it was so wet. Have a nice day.:smile:

My self-acclaimed success was not to be had. She started right up but I could not bring the speed down with either the idle screw or mixture. After fooling with her a few times I noticed gas leaking out of the copper screen on the fuel filter and vapors when I turned her off. I then figured I was incorrect in my hose changes and switched them back. Now, just like originally, she would not start at all and after cranking a few times noticed the oil dripping from the PCV hose again...like when I started this fix. I am now frustrated and although there are good parts on her...wheels, tires, hood, deck..etc. I do not want to fool with her so will offer her cheaply to some mechanic that can revive her for some more mowing time. Thanks to all who listened to my ordeal.

The Fuel pump has 3 connectors, one on opposite sides and one on the end,
The one on the end goes to the engine the one under it goes to the fuel tank the lonely one all by itself goes to the carb.
You test it by putting the carb end in a jar & cranking the engine.
IF you get a strong flow it is set up right.
IF you get a poor flow, remove the tube that goes to the fuel tank and blow back up the line.
If there is any resistance, you have a blockage in the fuel line or debris in the tank blocking the outlet.

oil dipping from the breather tube is generally a sign of either too much oil in the sump or a blown head gasket..

As the engine is running for a brief period then the ignition modules go way down on the suspect list.
Get a can of carb cleaner.
Pull the air filter off, give the mower a SHORT shot of cleaner and hit the starter.
If it fires up then continue with the SHORT shots of cleaner for a minute or so.
If you can keep it running like this then you have a fuel delivery problem.

As soon as it stops pull the dip stick.
If smoke comes out then you also have a blown head gasket.

Let us know how you get on.

Hi. I believe you are correct with a blown head gasket. When I had it running it smoked most all the time today and yestreday. Filled the whole garage. Is that much of a task for me to try myself? My friend also s a id something re valves. I appreciate your advice. I don't mind dismanteling the top of the engine if that is where the gasket would be located.

If you had a leakdown tester you could put engine on tdc compression stroke and hold flywheel so it won't move and apply air and listen to where you hear the air leaking from.

Pochie said:

Hi. I believe you are correct with a blown head gasket. When I had it running it smoked most all the time today and yestreday. Filled the whole garage. Is that much of a task for me to try myself? My friend also s a id something re valves. I appreciate your advice. I don't mind dismanteling the top of the engine if that is where the gasket would be located.

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The charge out rate is 2 hours so it is not a difficult job.
Most of the time is spent removing the silicon from the rocker cover if it is a late engine.

You will need a head gasket & a rocker cover gasket, about $ 20.

A picture is worth a 1000 words so flick over to You Tube and watch a few videos.
Taryl fixes all or donnyboy73 are recommended viewing as there is a lot of over produced crap out there
Taryl is fun and donny is deadpan but they are both shop owners who know their stuff.

When you have done the head you will need to do the valve lash and change the oil.

Going to ba a bit messy.
make sure you fit the gasket to the rocker cover as it makes it easy to do valve adjustments in the future.
I always grease the rocker cover gasket ( engine side ) with high temp axel grease and a sealant ( hylomar ) on the other side so it always strips off easy in the future.
head gasket goes on dry.

And be careful with the tension of the bolts some times they are in Ft.lbs ( 20-25 ) other times in inch.lbs ( 200 - 300 )
Tou can easily apply 40+ ft.lbs with a short spannar by which time you have ripped out the threads.