Yahoo Kees 48 in model 48172

JoeCoplan said:

So, now I have tested the PTO switch and it is good. I have tested the PTO clutch and it is also good. I have tested seat switch, break switch, driving stick switches and all is good. So, now I need to test power to each of these. How do I test power to the red PTO switch, and then power to the PTO clutch. I tested continuity to the PTO clutch and they said it should be around 2.5 ohms and mine was exactly 2.5 ohms. I have a rest light and a ohms tester. I hope someone can walk me through things to test power to and from each component. I am very frustrating. All help is welcome. Thanks, Joe

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Joe,
See post # 8
looks like we both had the forum open at the same time
Get through that lot and we will see what is happening.
I rather think the seat switch wires are pinched some where but in your case the seat switch is battery voltage so if it was shorting then It should have blown the small fuse.

Going through the test process from thread post #8

#1). I checked power to the 20A fuse - no power to either wire. With fuse in and with fuse out. No power with ignition switch on or off.

#2). On the ignition switch the wire going to the "B" is a blue wire not a red wire. No power with with the switch in the on or off position.

#3). No power to the "S" on the ignition switch with the key in the run position.

#4). No power

#5). No orange wire at the PTO switch. (Blue, Green, White, Red, Yellow, and Black or Brown)

#6). No orange-white wire @ PTO switch

#7). Can't check power to switch because because there is not a orange-white wire.

I stopped at #7. Does any of this information help at all. Remember, I can still jump and start the mower from the positive terminal on the battery to the starter.

JoeCoplan said:

Going through the test process from thread post #8

#1). I checked power to the 20A fuse - no power to either wire. With fuse in and with fuse out. No power with ignition switch on or off.

#2). On the ignition switch the wire going to the "B" is a blue wire not a red wire. No power with with the switch in the on or off position.

#3). No power to the "S" on the ignition switch with the key in the run position.

#4). No power

#5). No orange wire at the PTO switch. (Blue, Green, White, Red, Yellow, and Black or Brown)

#6). No orange-white wire @ PTO switch

#7). Can't check power to switch because because there is not a orange-white wire.

I stopped at #7. Does any of this information help at all. Remember, I can still jump and start the mower from the positive terminal on the battery to the starter.

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Yes.

You have just found a fault, which would explain your starting problems and toss my initial theory right out the window.
The wire that goes to the B (= Battery ) terminal on the ignition switch is the power supply for the entire mower when the engine is not running .
Thus it must always read 12 V when ever the battery is connected.
Generally it is connected to the hot wire on the starter solenoid.
A common mistake is to fit it to the switched pole on the solenoid so it can not supply power to the controls.
AS your problem started suddenly and not after you had replaced the solenoid , that wire is either broken, burned out or has fallen off.
So trace it back and see where it goes to.

When the engine is running , power is supplied from the alternator. Usually to one of the A terminals and according to the circuit diagram I have A1 & B are tied together
The only one I could find was For Units Produced Before Serial No. 074841364 which is why we are always at people for the full mower & engine numbers as it does make things difficult when the wires on your mower are different colours to the ones on my diagram.
Jumping the mower from the battery will energise the ignition switch while the jump is happening which will provide power to the fuel solenoid for long enough to start the engine from when the alternator provides the power.

Now because what you have in front of you is different to what I have in front of me, check the ignition switch plug for power, just in case there are differences in the connections.
IF no wire has power when the ignition is turned off then we have struck gold, or at least know where it is.
Just be careful that no power is allowed to go to the M (= magneto ) terminal which is the kill wire which should only ever be open circuit or ground.

This is what I have been using
View attachment Early with relays.pdf
So the wire colours come from here.
I used this because you mentioned you had 3 relays and this circuit diagram has 3 relays
the latter wiring diagram
View attachment late-no relays.pdf
has the same coloured wires at the PTO switch as you described except a red which I would assume was the wire from the ignition S terminal to the PTO cranking power terminal
Unfortunately neither show the alternator or where it is plugged into the circuit
Finally this is what I see for the main loom
View attachment loom.pdf
Note it shows a single heavy wire from the battery + to the solenoid so the wire with the 20 A fuse should also be connected to the same solenoid terminal.

There is NO power anywhere on the switch. Should I put the old start solenoid back on? You are right, I never had any of these problems until I placed a new starter solenoid on. I am sure I placed the wires onto the solenoid correct, but now I am second guessing myself. My solenoid is a 3 post. 2 bolts and 1 slip on wire. Can you tell me how the wires go onto the solenoid. I am pretty sure that I connected them correctly to the solenoid. But, now I just want to be sure. Thank you

http://www.yazookees.com/ddoc/YAZI/YAZI2002_USen/YAZI2002_USen_105292R08_.pdf

Here I see the link, that I have been using. The wiring diagram, I believe is on page 20 or 21.

JoeCoplan said:

There is NO power anywhere on the switch. Should I put the old start solenoid back on? You are right, I never had any of these problems until I placed a new starter solenoid on. I am sure I placed the wires onto the solenoid correct, but now I am second guessing myself. My solenoid is a 3 post. 2 bolts and 1 slip on wire. Can you tell me how the wires go onto the solenoid. I am pretty sure that I connected them correctly to the solenoid. But, now I just want to be sure. Thank you

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The hot wire from the battery can go to either of the large terminals, it does not matter which one
However there should be another thin wire ( other end of the wire with the 20A fuse ) with a big ring terminal on it that goes on the same terminal as the wire from the battery.
Chances are you either left it off cause it fell back somewhere or put it on the same terminal as the wire to the starter motor.
The other heavy wire goes to the starter motor.
The solenoid is just a switch and does the same thing as your cresent wrench.
Because both heavy wires look the same, it is easy to put the thin wire back on the same terminal it came off then transpose the heavy wires.
If your wire from the battery has a rubber cap on it , a good idea is to poke the mower wire through the cap as well so they stay together or tape them together

The slip on wire is the trigger wire and goes to the tab .
The solenoid gets its ground connection from the bolts that hold it to the mower.
It is also a common mistake to connect the power feed ( fused ) wire to one of these bolts mistaking it for a ground wire.

Just one of "those" things we have all done from time to time, but it would be nice if this was it. A simple fix and why a methodical start at one end & got to the other approach always works.

IF you are unsure, take a quick photo of it and post it, the boys will spot it in 2 seconds flat.

Heck YES, I found it. It was a small red wire tucked under the rubber boot coming off of the positive Battery terminal.

Now, the mower is back to where it was before I started all this. IT STILL DOES NOT START USING THE IGNITION. I PUT A NEW IGNITION SWITCH AND A NEW STARTER SOLENOID. IS THERE ANYTHING I can test to get this mower to start using the key? If not, I will just continue to start using a jumper wire from the positive battery to the starter.

A Hugh thanks to you for helping me through this mind pizzeling situation.

On page 22 in the book you were using note than under the battery wire is a second small wire near the number 15 with a little line passing through it.
That is the guilty party

Any suggestion on what to check for, in order to get this mower to start using the key? As you know I have already put a new starter solenoid and a new ignition switch on. on the starter solenoid (3 bolt solenoid). Coming off the positive battery to on side of the solenoid there are 2 wires. One thick red wire going to the positive on the battery and one going up to the switch. On the other side of the solenoid the wire goes over to the starter. Then there is a plug or slide on wire in front of the 2 bolts. Again, thanks for any help you can provide me.