coil ohm specs

cpurvis

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Nope. On the one I worked on, I could turn the engine over and it wouldn't start. How else would I have known that it wouldn't start? The problem was that the cable was not moving the lever on the left side of the engine far enough back to let the ignition out of 'kill' mode.
 

Rivets

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I don’t know what engine you had, but I have worked on the Briggs engine (which the OP posted about) many times and know how it is supposed to work. To see if the mechanism is working properly he’s going to have to remove the shroud, so it’s up to him what he does. Seeing he hasn’t replied, I’ll let you handle it from here and get out of here.
 

cpurvis

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No, don't do that. What I'm talking about was a 6 hp Briggs. I've got ZERO experience with the OP's particular model. I'm guessing that it has the same type system as the one I worked on.
 
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Rivets I agree with Purvis and Luffy Dog.. I have seen a lot of mowers that the cable was junked up and wasn't quite moving that last lil bit to disengage the kill contact....

His engine is that newer E series that came out about 5 years ago.... The one with the plastic carb on the port side of the engine...

I have never seen a coil go bad on one yet , but a lot of carb work on them I have done... Non etho gas and a filter system while you are pouring gas in the tank is a must.........
 

Rivets

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I know what engine the OP has, as I have worked on many of them. The OP will have to be a contortionist to see if the brake mechanism is coming off the kill wire terminal, without removing the shroud. I never said he had a bad coil, I just gave him a method on how to test for a bad coil. I guess that’s why I’m a teacher, I can only tell you how to do something which I got from a book. In this case I’m talking about an engine I have worked on, not something similar. What are you going to do when you find out the carb is not bolted to the engine? Not all engines are the same, but you can use my replies on any single cylinder engine to troubleshoot a problem. By disagreeing with me doesn’t make any of us right, but it does make people deside who is more credible. I can accept that my credibility in this thread is zero in the eyes of three other members, the OP will deside how he wants to proceed. By By
 
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Rivets ............... I never said anything about you saying it wasn't a bad coil...... I was saying I MYSELF never seen a bad coil on them since that engine series came out about 4 or 5 years ago......

All I said was I was agreeing with 2 other people on the cable travel on the BAIL/ DEADMAN handle......... IF the cable is rusted and junky it will not travel all the way to disengage the kill switch...

Will you please look at the brand new post that I replied to earlier about a Honda engine that somebody had trouble with a good while back...........

Bert and I told the guy that the switch was not working right....... The guy checked it yesterday and agreed that the cable was stretched and not disengaging the kill switch for the coil...........

He thanked all the people who replied and helped him and let us know he found the problem.......

The last thing we need on here is FRIENDS getting mad at each other ......... We are trying to help other people and this is not a competition....

2 pages of comments and only 1 post from the OP I wish people would say spell out Original Poster instead of TEXT TALK

That's my rant on TEXT TALK

Plus Tard Mes Ami ~!~!
 
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Here is the original post to a stretched cable on a engine with no spark...........



03-11-2018, 12:52 PM #1
bschuman4 bschuman4 is offline

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Mar 2018
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North Carolina
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Husqvarna

honda gcv160 no spark
the last time this mower was used it shut off by it self and would not restart. checked and no spark. I pulled the wire on the coil and it fired right up. I replaced the coil with oem coil hooked it all up and the same problem no spark and when I pull the wire and again it fired right up if someone knows why I will be eternally grateful............
 
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