Engine respond to ignition and turns but won't fire up.

This is making me crazy. I'm new to owning a lawn mower. I have 3 acres and a friend mine gave me an old Montgomery ward mower (1991 I think). It was running two years ago. I couldn't get it to start this year so i took in to get it looked at. They replaced the carburetor, did some maintenance and said it was fine. They also removed the choke cable and attached the choke to the throttle. When i go it home, it wouldn't start. So I took it back. They messed with the choke (I think). When I went to pick it up, it barely started. But they said it was fine. Once i got it home, it wouldn't start. I took back. Seriously, again. Then they messed with it said it was fixed. I went to pick it up and started fine at the shop. When i got it home, it wouldn't start. After messing with the throttle and choke and trying to start it for about 5 minutes, it did fire up and I mowed about 2 acres. It works great while running. After i was done, I parked it and turned it off. I turned it right back on to see if would start and it did with no problem. The following day I am back to no start. I tried for quite a while today and it won't fire up. The engine spins and responds to the ignition, but won't fire up. Any ideas? (Besides finding a new repair shop). I'm losing my mind.
-Ryan

Engine: Briggs and Stratton Model 287707

My first guess would be the choke conversion.
There is no reason to remove a stand alone choke
have a good look at the top of the carb and make sure the choke is full closed wit the throttle fully opened.

Yes I agree with Bert..... The separate choke is the way to go........ Did they give you a reason for the conversion ??

A lot of guys redo the all in one to a separate choke because it's better.......

You have a good engine on your mower. I do believe that's a I/C engine .......

I'm pretty sure he removed it because he felt clever. He seemed to be so proud of himself. When i returned the first time, he had been fired.

Thanks for the comments.

I was actually holding the choke open with my fingers while cranking because I thought the same thing. That didn't seem to change anything. But it also doesn't seem to move very much. I'll look closer.
Thanks
Ryan

you hold the choke closed to start the engine.
Generally that means pushing the control rod.
Most are spring loaded open.

bertsmobile1 said:

you hold the choke closed to start the engine.
Generally that means pushing the control rod.
Most are spring loaded open.

Click to expand...

Sorry- that's what I meant.

So you are saying the choke is working as it should? Starts warm but not after it sits over night. This could also be a fuel pump not holding its pressure to the carburetor after it sits for some time like overnight.

OK,
If it does not start with the choke held closed with your little pinkie, we need to look deeper.
For this you need a spark tester (oregon 42-031 ) and a can of carb cleaner.
Note the 42-031 flashes red so it is easy to see in daylight the 42-087 just sparks and is used for different reasons.
Hook the spark tester up to a spot where you can see it from the seat
Give the carb a quick shot of carb cleaner ( we are using this as starter fluid ) and crank the engine.
Watch the spark tester while doing this.
If it took a couple of revolutions for the tester to flash then you have an ignition problem .
If it start right up like new you have a fuel problem

Let us know how you get on and we will take it from there