Convert From Vacuum to Electric Fuel Pump

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MrFrost

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I have a Husqvarna 24V54 (YTH2454) (Intek V-Twin) that always takes forever to start after sitting for a few days. Put a new pulse pump on it but didn't help. So I've decided to put a universal, low pressure, 12v gas pump on it. Problem is, I haven't any idea which of those pumps on ebay would work.
Anyone here made such a conversion? Would a 2-4 psi pump work okay? Would I need a regulator (1 - 5 psi) as well? Don't want to overwhelm the carburetor.
Please share the wisdom of your experience!
Thanks.
 
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bertsmobile1

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BEfore you start replacing things would it not be advisable to isolate the hard start problem first ?
 
Boobala

Boobala

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Just out of curiosity, does YOUR engine have the "Ready-Start , or the auto-choke feature (thermo-stat type choke) I have a 14 year old Briggs twin I/C Intek with MANUAL choke, and I NEVER have to crank it more than say 10-15 seconds to fire-up, I just acquired a used 24 HP Briggs twin with the thermo-stat choke and I will definitely convert to manual, BEFORE I even install it on my mower. I myself, have NOT heard of anyone going over to electric, because there are few people, with the pulse pump having an issue. There may well be other members here, that may have the info you are seeking, give them time, ...... :thumbsup:
 
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Luffydog

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Adjust your choke cable or the leakage might have came out. Had these problems here. Push your throttle lever up open hood and take it off. Right in front of the engine u should see the cable or cables. Loosen it up while holding the cable in the position as it is. After loosening it up pull back on it until the lever fully chokes then tighten it up. Before you start work the choke cable and watch which way it pulls. Then look at the lever and gently see if you can move it further in the same direction it was going when it stopped moving with the handle.
 
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MrFrost

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Luffydog said:
Adjust your choke cable or the leakage might have came out. Had these problems here. Push your throttle lever up open hood and take it off. Right in front of the engine u should see the cable or cables. Loosen it up while holding the cable in the position as it is. After loosening it up pull back on it until the lever fully chokes then tighten it up. Before you start work the choke cable and watch which way it pulls. Then look at the lever and gently see if you can move it further in the same direction it was going when it stopped moving with the handle.
Click to expand...

Yep! That was the problem. I made the adjustment and it starts just fine now. Much Appreciated, Luffydog!
 
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MrFrost

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Boobala said:
Just out of curiosity, does YOUR engine have the "Ready-Start , or the auto-choke feature (thermo-stat type choke) I have a 14 year old Briggs twin I/C Intek with MANUAL choke, and I NEVER have to crank it more than say 10-15 seconds to fire-up, I just acquired a used 24 HP Briggs twin with the thermo-stat choke and I will definitely convert to manual, BEFORE I even install it on my mower. I myself, have NOT heard of anyone going over to electric, because there are few people, with the pulse pump having an issue. There may well be other members here, that may have the info you are seeking, give them time, ...... :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

The Husqvarna parts list I have calls it a "Choke-A-Matic", #796258.
If YouTube is any indicator, there are many folks who have converted to electric. Quicker starting - less starter wear - longer battery life, etc. Even after sitting for weeks: Fast starting.

Luffydog put his finger on the problem I was having. Followed his advise and solved the problem. Still might convert though.:confused2:
 
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motoman

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In the old days there was a problem with electric pumps because they could easily overcome the carb float buoyancy and push the inlet valve off its seat, thus defeating the improvement desired (causing flooding). I see you have considered it with the 2-4 lbs you mention. I remember that the engine-driven double action pumps delivered about 3 psi to the much bigger automobile floats. We used pressure regulators.
 
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MrFrost

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motoman said:
In the old days there was a problem with electric pumps because they could easily overcome the carb float buoyancy and push the inlet valve off its seat, thus defeating the improvement desired (causing flooding). I see you have considered it with the 2-4 lbs you mention. I remember that the engine-driven double action pumps delivered about 3 psi to the much bigger automobile floats. We used pressure regulators.
Click to expand...

Yep. I have my eye on a 1-5 psi adjustable regulator used on vw dune buggies. But, the cost is twice what I want to pay. Maybe I'll try an inline on/off valve and just crack it open a bit. Put a Y connector on the inlet side with one arm to the on/off valve and the other arm going back to the top of the gas tank. Might work.
 
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Luffydog

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Glad to hear you solved your prob.
 
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