2010 729BT6 left drive wheel power loss

Heavy D · Feb 27, 2018

Hi All,
I purchased my mower used back in September. Everything seemed fine and mowed grass a few times and used it foe snow blowing as well. Over the winter it felt like the left wheel was slipping while snow blowing but when I added more forward to the levers it eventually went. I just went to put it on a trailer and the left wheel does not have any power will not even go up the trailer ramp. The right wheel has tons of power. Did I blow a drive wheel motor? It only has 567 hours on the machine. The price for a wheel drive ain’t cheap by any means $900. Can I replace this myself if this is what’s wrong ? Would love some help and advice !
Thanks,
Dean

BWH · Feb 27, 2018

Seems like it went from good to bad too quick to be a motor problem. Have you checked that the linkage from the steering arms has not come loose where it slowly over a number of uses got to the point it isn't working at all? I would imagine you could also have a o-ring or valve seat go bad causing oil bypassing or even debris in an oil valve. Last thought should maybe be the first to check, it should have a dump valve on the pump to allow the mower to free wheel, could have you moved this lever and the pump is partially bypassing?

Heavy D · Feb 28, 2018

Yeah, now that I think about it, it has slowly gotten worse over time. I checked the 2 hex heads you turn to release the drive to move the mower by pushing and they are both in the proper position. Both arms are tight, connected and work the same, I have not found any leaks anywhere BUT your comments got me thinking. I checked the reservoir (which I should have done FIRST...duh) and it is very low...well below the cold level mark but not empty...will buy some fluid tomorrow and top off and see if that’s it. That does bring up a question as to where is the fluid going though?
Thanks for the thoughts, am SO new to this Zero turn stuff.
Dean

BWH said:
Seems like it went from good to bad too quick to be a motor problem. Have you checked that the linkage from the steering arms has not come loose where it slowly over a number of uses got to the point it isn't working at all? I would imagine you could also have a o-ring or valve seat go bad causing oil bypassing or even debris in an oil valve. Last thought should maybe be the first to check, it should have a dump valve on the pump to allow the mower to free wheel, could have you moved this lever and the pump is partially bypassing?

BWH · Feb 28, 2018

Let me know if the fluid helps, odd that the other side is still working properly considering they share the oil reservoir.

If that doesn't improve things I was thinking you could reverse the hydraulic hoses from the pump to the wheel motors, if the left wheel still has no power you could conclude the motor is bad if the right wheel looses power it would indicate the valve control has a problem.

Watch the backward controls during your test.

Heavy D · Mar 1, 2018

Picked up the fluid and filled to cold level (6 oz low ) and ran the machine around the driveway, turning circles full lever etc for 5 min....seemed to be fine but always was on flat ground so will check the fluid after it cools and see where the level is. We are supposed to get 10-12 inches of snow tonight so will see how it does in the AM pushing the snowblower.

Reverse the hoses as in same wheel just reverse in and out or swap wheel hoses from left to right keeping same in and out? I think you are telling me to swap wheels as if the problem goes from left to right the wheel motor is good?

Please explain watching the backward controls during the test.

Thanks so much for all the help !
Dean

BWH said:
Let me know if the fluid helps, odd that the other side is still working properly considering they share the oil reservoir.

If that doesn't improve things I was thinking you could reverse the hydraulic hoses from the pump to the wheel motors, if the left wheel still has no power you could conclude the motor is bad if the right wheel looses power it would indicate the valve control has a problem.

Watch the backward controls during your test.

Luffydog · Mar 1, 2018

If you swap the hoses forward will be backward and vice versa or the right handle will control left wheel instead of the right wheel is prob what he was talking about if you swap from right to the left and so on.

Heavy D · Mar 1, 2018

Got it...that makes sense now...thx !
Dean

Luffydog said:
If you swap the hoses forward will be backward and vice versa or the right handle will control left wheel instead of the right wheel is prob what he was talking about if you swap from right to the left and so on.

Darryl G · Mar 1, 2018

If you go disconnecting things, be ULTRA careful not to get any dust/dirt/grime in the lines & fittings. Hoses may not reach. Usually not much slack.

Luffydog · Mar 1, 2018

Also beware of metal shavings that might be in the pump or hoses.

ILENGINE · Mar 2, 2018

If you have a bad wheel motor do not switch the hoses to the other pump to test it. If the motor is bad there is a good chance that the bad motor has taken out the pump on that side, and if you attempt to use the right pump to test it that same debris will now damage the other pump. If the motor is bad the whole system will have to disassembled and flushed off all metal shavings, oil tank will need to be drained and rinsed out, all the lines will have to be removed and cleaned,

2010 729BT6 left drive wheel power loss

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Heavy D

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BWH

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Heavy D

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BWH

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Heavy D

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Luffydog

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Heavy D

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