Push button starter on Gravely ztr

aussielawny

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Threads
9
Messages
40
My Compact Pro 34 has a constant problem with starting, not getting enough volts to the starter to fire. Its intermittent, sometimes it will fire 1st turn of the key, most times it takes many tries - l recently put a new key switch on it but it is still the same.
So - l'm thinking of installing a push button starter. Can l wire a starter button on its own wiring between the battery and starter and still leave the ignition as it is i.e. to kill the engine turn the key off? ......to start l would turn the key to on/run and push the button to start it, and turn the key off to stop as per normal - will this work?
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
Yes you can but it will not make fleas foreskin of a difference to you mower.
Voltage loss is caused by dirty contacts which are fixed with some steel wool followed by a coat of liquid electrical tape.

However if the voltage is too low , the solenoid which is where the power to the starter motor is actually switched , will not fire.

Now if you want you mower fixed, start with a full and proper description of what happens when you try & start the engine.
You are 10,000 times more likely to have a problem with the valves than a problem with the starter.
In 4 years of business I have only ever replaced 2 of them.
One was on a Dingo Digger which had 2,700 hours on the clock when it stopped working ( the clock, not the digger )
The other was on a Husqvarna that lived out in the weather and had a kilogram of rust in the bottom of the starter.

When I took over the business there was a box of 12 solenoids in it. I have used 1 and bought 4 more so I have one of every kind.
OTOH I have fixed 176 non starting mowers by servicing the valves, two required new cam shafts and another had enough gravel under the flywheel to resurface the Pacific Highway.
 

aussielawny

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Threads
9
Messages
40
turn the key, single click from the solenoid, keep turning on/off until it fires....sometimes up to 20 go's, occasionally first hit. Replaced the ignition 3 months ago. Battery is fine, all earth points tight as a fishes bum etc. l know its a known problem with this model, 2 other contractors in Oz with the same model, same problem.........so, l need a simple effective fix, a push button start - l just need to know if installing it on separate wiring between the battery straight to the solenoid will work while still retaining all the other wiring (mainly for the hour meter)
thanks for replying Bert, you're not near Jervis Bay by any chance?
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
Sydney, a pleasant motorcycle ride away.

What you can hear is the fuel solenoid under the carb turning on & off.
Lots of "known problems" arn't what the "knowers" know.
In order to protect the operator, bystanders and the mower itself, there is more in the starting circuit than just the ignition switch solenoid & starter mower.

In all cases power comes in the B terminal on the starter switch and then goes out the S terminal ( look at the one you replaced & you will see the tiny letters on the back.
From there it goes to the PTO switch then to the brake switch then to one side of the trigger circuit on the starter solenoid.
SO the PTO has to be off & the parking brake has to be on for the mower to start.
On ZTR's there is a second circuit that goes from ground through both of the lap bars to the other trigger terminal on the starter solenoid.
Some times this is done directly and some times it is done using a relay
The logic for this is you can not start the engine with the mower in drive which was done because of all of the mowers with badly adjusted parking brakes that will not hold the mower .

Now back to your problem.
Usually it is the lap bar switches.
make a pair of short jumper leads.
measure the voltage on the trigger ( small wires ) at the base of the starter solenoid when you turn the ignition to start.
One side should go 12 V and the other side should be ground.
IF not one of the two safety circuits is at fault.
You can then isolate which one by removing one of the trigger wires and then use the short jumper to make a ground or to supply 12 V depending which wire you removed.

OTOH the real Bert has set up shop in Callala Bay and we both do drop everything servicing and repairs for commercial mowing customers.
PM me if you want the phone number
He will also supply you with parts at a much better price than any of the brand name mower shops.
 

aussielawny

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Threads
9
Messages
40
thanks mate, l know Bert....l'm at Currarong
 
Top