Briggs opposed twin

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bwestbrook

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• Aug 2, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #11

I checked spark and have good spark on both cylinders. I also have compression of 110 psi on both cylinders. Fuel flow is also good. There is quite a bit of carbon buildup on the tops of the pistons. I don't have a leakdown tester. Any other tests before I check for internal governor problems?

 

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runderwo

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• Aug 2, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #12

So you can pull the wire off either #1 or #2 plug and it runs just the same?

 

reddragon

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• Aug 2, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #13

this still sounds like a grass problem

 

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bwestbrook

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• Aug 3, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #14

Yes runs the same with either wire pulled. Still don't know how it could be a grass problem though. If that was the case the governor would kick in but it doesn't. The grass is thicker than the last house I lived in but isn't thick enough that my 16 horse twin cylinder Briggs should bogg down with sharp blades. Plus I am not cutting short or fast. Please don't take this as any disrespect but I have been mowing different grass for years but haven't been messing with small engine work that long. I know it is not a grass problem but it is definitely my mower.

 

reddragon

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• Aug 3, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #15

governors dont kick in....they maintain speed..............lets be clear.....at full throttle..it never gets to peak rpm?..before blades are engaged......is that what your saying?

 

Murry Furry

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• Aug 3, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #16

bwestbrook said:

I have a Murray with an opposed twin cylinder Briggs. It runs pretty good but when I get in tall grass it does not idle up. I mow at full throttle but it is like the governor never kicks in. I have adjusted the gov but still same result. What could I be looking for?

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i've had to deal with opposed engines, and i've found that they have a hard time keeping a steady rpm under sometimes normal work loads. also by the sound of it you may have a internal governor issue. but before taking it in you make want to just play to the motors strengths. opposed engines can produce more horses, but have less torque. so they can pull more, but if it is more than what the motor can handle the opposed will bog down quicker. so if it is just a area of your yard that bogs it down. you might want to try to bum rush it and let the momentum of the blades handle it. if it is a good portion,or most of your yard. try to find a mowing pattern that allows you to cross the tough grass, and then some softer stuff to try to get the blade speed back up, so you can keep moving.:smile:

 

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bwestbrook

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• Aug 3, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #17

reddragon said:

governors dont kick in....they maintain speed..............lets be clear.....at full throttle..it never gets to peak rpm?..before blades are engaged......is that what your saying?

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Yes I understand that governors don't "kick in" but that is just the terminology I use and have always heard. But when an engine starts to lose power under a load you can tell when the governor "kicks in" or "maintains speed" however you want to word it. Just like when you engage the blades and put it under a load. You can hear the governor maintain speed. Mine is not doing that.

 

reddragon

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• Aug 3, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #18

if its not the grass....and its not grass caked up on the deck....and the blades are sharp...and your mower belt is tight and pulley's clean.......then your engine's lost horsepower......maybe a worn cam....the governor is fine if it holds rpm prior to grass resistance.............also you might have your rpms checked by a tachometer...it may not actually be reaching peak rpm

 

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bwestbrook

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• Aug 3, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #19

How would I be able to check for a worn cam?

 

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bwestbrook

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• Aug 12, 2011 / Briggs opposed twin

• #20

reddragon said:

if its not the grass....and its not grass caked up on the deck....and the blades are sharp...and your mower belt is tight and pulley's clean.......then your engine's lost horsepower......maybe a worn cam....the governor is fine if it holds rpm prior to grass resistance.............also you might have your rpms checked by a tachometer...it may not actually be reaching peak rpm

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I thought my belts were still good since I replaced them at the beginning of the year.
Well my primary deck belt broke so I went ahead and replaced both belts. My problem was solved. No more bogging down in thick grass. Now I just have to figure out why my belts wore out that fast.