Hello all -
I have a small(?) problem - the flywheel key on my 11Hp engine is sheared and jerks the cord out of my hand when trying to start. Um, that hurts!
Engine specs: 11HP Model# 28D702 Type 1142-E1 Code 030922ZD (Mfg'd 09/22/2003) B&S Manual Ref#: 280000
Background info: This motor is on a Husky 35 Ton log splitter, bought 4 yrs ago used. Almost didn't buy it because the motor ran like total crap and had one Heck of a metallic clang while running. Just before I walked away, I pulled the air filter cover and found the Dang nastiest air filter I've ever seen. Removed the filter and it ran just fine! Unreal. Made me wonder about the condition of the flywheel key (and the mental condition of the owner).
Used it last Nov, ran more or less ok but had a miss at full throttle. Tried to used it early Jan, wouldn't start. Put a neon spark tool inline with the plug, no spark. Pulled it a few more times and finally got a very weak barely reddish spark. Ok, rust on the flywheel, etc.
Sanded the flywheel and coil faces and reassemble; got a beautiful white/blue spark - jump close to 3/4" or more. Tried to start it, one pull - nada. 2nd pull it jerked the cord out of my hand halfway thru the pull. 3rd pull - same thing. Cold motor, pre-ignition - likely sheared key.
Stripped it down and was using my Harbor Freight Puller/Bearing Separator Set (P/N 93980) and two 5/16 X 4" SAE bolts to try to remove the flywheel. Note: had to grind some of the outer edges off a 3/8" nut to drop down into the crankshaft well as an intermediate spacer since the bottom end of the HF forcing bolt was too narrow to properly engage the chamfered surface in the well. Looked like it would work ok.
Problem: After tightening the forcing bolt a bit, it got so tight I couldn't hold the flywheel still to get any more turning action on the bolt. Used a small crowbar between one of the 5/16" bolts and the shaft of the turning bolt to restrain it. Worked for a short time but then the force bent the 5/16" bolt and cocked the turning bolt to one side. Then it bent the other 5/6" bolt getting it loose. Time for Plan B.
Questions:
1. I am assuming that the sheared key could be creating excess force between the crankshaft slot area and the inner surface of the flywheel. Would it make sense to try to knock the flywheel backwards in order to attempt to re-align the key somewhat?
I would use a piece of hard plastic held next to the flywheel surface in order to avoid dinging the flywheel.
2. I used an air gun to remove the top bolt holding the flywheel cup in place. Worked very well with a helper holding the flywheel with just a pair of gloves. Several short pops and it was loose.
So, given the difficulty of holding the flywheel still, would it be ok to use the air gun on the forcing bolt - doing short pops and starting with a lower torque setting and working up as needed?
3. Should I use 5/16" Grade 8 bolts instead of Grade 5? Last thing I need would be for a bolt to break off near the hole.
4. Also, I could pre-soak the area with a bit of PB or WD-40 in small amounts. Any concerns here?
Please advise on any suggestions.
Thx
Fred
I have a small(?) problem - the flywheel key on my 11Hp engine is sheared and jerks the cord out of my hand when trying to start. Um, that hurts!
Engine specs: 11HP Model# 28D702 Type 1142-E1 Code 030922ZD (Mfg'd 09/22/2003) B&S Manual Ref#: 280000
Background info: This motor is on a Husky 35 Ton log splitter, bought 4 yrs ago used. Almost didn't buy it because the motor ran like total crap and had one Heck of a metallic clang while running. Just before I walked away, I pulled the air filter cover and found the Dang nastiest air filter I've ever seen. Removed the filter and it ran just fine! Unreal. Made me wonder about the condition of the flywheel key (and the mental condition of the owner).
Used it last Nov, ran more or less ok but had a miss at full throttle. Tried to used it early Jan, wouldn't start. Put a neon spark tool inline with the plug, no spark. Pulled it a few more times and finally got a very weak barely reddish spark. Ok, rust on the flywheel, etc.
Sanded the flywheel and coil faces and reassemble; got a beautiful white/blue spark - jump close to 3/4" or more. Tried to start it, one pull - nada. 2nd pull it jerked the cord out of my hand halfway thru the pull. 3rd pull - same thing. Cold motor, pre-ignition - likely sheared key.
Stripped it down and was using my Harbor Freight Puller/Bearing Separator Set (P/N 93980) and two 5/16 X 4" SAE bolts to try to remove the flywheel. Note: had to grind some of the outer edges off a 3/8" nut to drop down into the crankshaft well as an intermediate spacer since the bottom end of the HF forcing bolt was too narrow to properly engage the chamfered surface in the well. Looked like it would work ok.
Problem: After tightening the forcing bolt a bit, it got so tight I couldn't hold the flywheel still to get any more turning action on the bolt. Used a small crowbar between one of the 5/16" bolts and the shaft of the turning bolt to restrain it. Worked for a short time but then the force bent the 5/16" bolt and cocked the turning bolt to one side. Then it bent the other 5/6" bolt getting it loose. Time for Plan B.
Questions:
1. I am assuming that the sheared key could be creating excess force between the crankshaft slot area and the inner surface of the flywheel. Would it make sense to try to knock the flywheel backwards in order to attempt to re-align the key somewhat?
I would use a piece of hard plastic held next to the flywheel surface in order to avoid dinging the flywheel.
2. I used an air gun to remove the top bolt holding the flywheel cup in place. Worked very well with a helper holding the flywheel with just a pair of gloves. Several short pops and it was loose.
So, given the difficulty of holding the flywheel still, would it be ok to use the air gun on the forcing bolt - doing short pops and starting with a lower torque setting and working up as needed?
3. Should I use 5/16" Grade 8 bolts instead of Grade 5? Last thing I need would be for a bolt to break off near the hole.
4. Also, I could pre-soak the area with a bit of PB or WD-40 in small amounts. Any concerns here?
Please advise on any suggestions.
Thx
Fred