Tuff Torq K62a bypass level oil leak

arch252

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I have a LX279 with a Tuff Torq K62A hydrostatic. My in laws borrowed it and were hauling some wood in a basket on the back, I think it overworked the transmission and caused oil pressure to build up. Afterwards there was a significant oil leak from the top of the transmission where the bypass lever exits the case. The parts diagram shows "packing" instead of some type of seal.

I am assuming/hoping I only need to replace that packing. Before I remove the bypass rod/lever from the case, is there anything I need to be aware of? Does that rod simply lift straight up and out or is there anything special I will need to do?

I've had a K62A completely apart before (not this one) and I know there are several parts that must be in exactly the correct position.

I don't want to cause more problems that. I already have.

Anyone think the problem is something more than that packing?

I have already removed the floor pan with seat, gas tank and cooling fan to confirm the location of the leak.
 

arch252

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Photos...
 

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7394

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No offense meant, but you have a lot of crud built up on there & that creates more heat. Hopefully the fix is simple. I know I'd clean that unit up so it runs cooler.
 

arch252

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The only crud is where the oil came out and all the dirt built up on. It was clean as a whistle before, and is still very clean elsewhere. You can't tell from the picture but all that crud is still moist and fresh. That didn't cause it to overheat, the oil pressure built up and forced oil out the bypass valve. The question now is can that bypass rod simply be pulled straight out to replace the packing.
 

BlazNT

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arch252

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Thanks but for some reason I can't open the diagram on the link you posted. I'll post a link to the diagram on the Green site, it may be the same as what you posted. The parts I'm referring to are the lever (17), pin (16), packing (18) and shaft (19). The packing does look like 2 O rings. I'm having a heck of a time removing the pin (17) but I was hoping that when I do get it out the lever will remove from the shaft and then I cpuld access and replace the packing (16) without removing the shaft from the case, then replace the lever and pin.

Do you know for sure this won't work? Are you absolutely sure I have to split the case and remove the shaft? Hate to question you but if so this just went from a 2 hour job to a 2 day job.

John Deere - Parts Catalog
http://m.jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servle...alog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt#mw_pdp
 

arch252

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Not sure if that link worked, here's a picture
 

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BlazNT

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Same diagram with different numbers. What you are calling packing are 2 o-rings per tuff torq. They make it so if you have packing now I would upgrade to the o-rings.
 

arch252

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Thanks Blaz, how certain are you that I'll have to split the case?

I have a spare K62A that has one bad pump in it, I could always test it on that if you aren't 100% sure.
 

BlazNT

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Ok so to pull the rod the o-rings go around you have to split the case. If you think you can pull them out from the top and replace them you will not have to split the case.
 
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