Go Kart Electrical Issue

zman111666

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Hello, folks.
I am working on this "Yerf Dog" go kart with no determinable make or model number that I can find, but from what I can tell, a typical setup with a 110cc engine, stator, ignition module like a moped would have, etc. The operator controls are limited to a start button, an on/off toggle, and the brake and gas pedals, and a light switch.
So, I get it all fixed and serviced up, but when I go to hook up the battery, there is a slight spark (at the battery terminal). So I make sure everything is off, and touch the negative wire onto the battery post again, and still a little spark. So that makes me wary of a parasitic ground, so I go unhooking this and that, kill switch, lights, module, etc, one at a time, and finally discover that it is the stator, or at least when I disconnect the wires that disappear into the flywheel housing, I can no longer make a spark between the terminal and the negative lead.
Is this normal? I am afraid to leave the battery hooked up, lest it discharge overnight. I would expect that when everything is turned off, there should be no current between the negative terminal, and the negative wire, no? There is no ignition switch, just a kill switch by the start button, which I'm pretty sure just grounds the coil to kill the engine.

It does have a small circuit board with a couple relays, is one of those stuck, maybe? Or am I just going nuts over a tiny spark that means nothing?


(P.S. No brake lights or safety switches to get stuck)
 

BlazNT

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I would hook my electrical tester up in series with the battery and check to see if there is a draw or just something getting energized.
 

ILENGINE

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If you are getting a spark I would suspect a short or something of that nature. the most it should draw with everything off is less than 100 milliamps. So would be checking from each of the stator wires to ground and see if they are shorted. Some of those types of engines also have the ignition trigger as part of that harness, which could have continuity to ground, but will read a specific resistance.
 

zman111666

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Thanks, guys. I will check to see how much resistance I am getting in each wire. Another thing I forgot to do is check my charging volts. That might be a clue as well. I guess it would make sense to have some current all the time, since there is no key switch or other full disconnect when it isn't running. Also, i could just leave the battery hooked up a couple hours, and see if there is a voltage drop, or any part of the system gets warm... Just thinking out loud here...
 

zman111666

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Well, that didn't go so well.... I hooked the battery up and started the motor. Checked to see if it's charging-- it isn't. Turned off the engine, took note of the battery voltage, and turned my back for a minute while working on another part. Looked after a bit to see smoke coming out of the flywheel shroud. Not good. Looks like a shorted stator.
 

primerbulb120

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Stators on those things aren't very expensive or hard to obtain. When I replaced the stator on mine I think it was $14 off eBay. Not all that hard to replace either.

I think my stator was shorted because the previous owner filled the flywheel housing with oil. :laughing:
 

zman111666

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Yeah. Already looked at a few on Ebay, as little as $10, free shipping, can be here in as little as 4 days. I already have the old one off, was grunting, groaning and cussing trying to get the flywheel off, until I remembered I bought the special puller a couple years ago for another job.

So the one I pulled off is a 6 pole, but apparently they have 8-pole and 11-pole stators for the same engine (GY6, 150cc). Is it an upgrade to go with more poles? ---------------------- Never mind. I have a 6 magnet flywheel, better stick with a 6 pole stator.
 

EngineMan

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I would check the in line diode or the voltage regulator before fitting the new one....!
 

zman111666

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Is there a quick test for the regulator?
 
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