Sharpening blades
- Thread starter Gerry
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rekees
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Far as I know there is no good way to do that. The side that needs to be sharpened is above the blade and below the mower housing so there's not much room to get in there. Suggest just removing the blade(s). I've tried a Dremel Tool but it was ineffective.
use A little never seize on the bolts when you put them back on and in the future they will come off easily-[any auto parts store]----after you file the blade, hang it on a nail and set it near level and see if it stays there, you may have to remove a little more off one side or the other to get it do this. Clean off the blade with a wire brush before you start as the grass buildup will affect the balance:thumbsup:
AcadGrad81
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I don't doubt what you're saying, but I'm thinking of sharpening other blades such as on ice skates. Are there not V-shaped stone devices to touch up skates by hand? I'm surprised that someone has not come up with a hand sharpening kit for mower blades. Of course, the drawback is keeping count of the strokes and trying to keep the pressure even. I've cruised through the commercial lawn care forums and those guys do a lot of sharpening in a season.
Mower blades get very beat up and need some serious grinding/file time to get into shape... You are not going to do that with a steel or dressing hand tool...
You really do need to periodically remove the blades so that when you do finally have to replace them you will be able to remove them... AND as others have mentioned ... always use anti seize when going back together. (also remember that more nuts bolts fail from over tightening than from under tightening.) KennyV
You really do need to periodically remove the blades so that when you do finally have to replace them you will be able to remove them... AND as others have mentioned ... always use anti seize when going back together. (also remember that more nuts bolts fail from over tightening than from under tightening.) KennyV
RULE NUMBER ONE - blades HAVE to be OFF the mower to be properly sharpened.
It's easy to get them off and on.
There are a number of devices (blade clamps) that do this as will a short length of 2x4. Although we do not do this and will not advocate this - if you have to ALWAYS tilt the mower carb side up UNLESS instructed otherwise by your manual. If a tractor or Z-T, lift the deck.
As a professional, we NEVER tilt a walk-behind mower - we use lifts for tractors, mowers (walk-behinds) and Zero-Turns. All walk-behinds are lifted flat and never tilted. We use clamps. Remove the spark plug lead (MANDATORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Remove the blade. Clean the blade, sharpen the blade, and accurately balance it (all of which is done using professional tools - no nails, no files, no right angle grinders, NO HACK methods)
For more info see the thread in general info re. Pro BLADE SHARPENING.
It's easy to get them off and on.
There are a number of devices (blade clamps) that do this as will a short length of 2x4. Although we do not do this and will not advocate this - if you have to ALWAYS tilt the mower carb side up UNLESS instructed otherwise by your manual. If a tractor or Z-T, lift the deck.
As a professional, we NEVER tilt a walk-behind mower - we use lifts for tractors, mowers (walk-behinds) and Zero-Turns. All walk-behinds are lifted flat and never tilted. We use clamps. Remove the spark plug lead (MANDATORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Remove the blade. Clean the blade, sharpen the blade, and accurately balance it (all of which is done using professional tools - no nails, no files, no right angle grinders, NO HACK methods)
For more info see the thread in general info re. Pro BLADE SHARPENING.