Can someone explain - Throttle/choke remote control ajustment.

Can someone help me understand what is meant by the language used in step 3?



I assume the governor control rack (D) is jsut the white piece not the metal plate it rides it, correct?

But I don't understand what "holes" I am aligning. They say "holes" but B on the diagram is only pointing to one hole.

What is the "control bracket" ? is it e metal bracket that the "control rack (D)" is riding in? OR do they mean the control rack?

I am not clear what they are asking me to do. Can someone clarify what they are asking me to do in step 3.

This is a Briggs and Stratton 17.5 HP 31000 series engine on a Craftsman mower and this diagram is from the service manual.

A is the rotating part of the throttle that pulls the governor spring and also closes the choke when set up as a single control type unit. When A is rotating to a certain spot you will be able to put a pin through hole B and it will also go through a corresponding hole in A. That is the set point.

Thank you.
Would this also be how you adjust the choke or does setting it to FAST still get both adjusted properly?

With choke lever set to max the choke was not fully closed on the carb. If I move the white box the cable is connected to I can get it set so it is fully off.
However then the hole B on the diagram is partially blocked.

So I have to ask which is more important? Is it important to have those holes set as the instructions or that the chock is fully closed if at max on the lever?
Seems to run fine this way. Not sure it solved any of surge issues on cold start. Each time I adjust something I seem to cut down the time it surges.

As for the holes , Is till cant figure out what A is. The only holes that crossed by a moving part is the one B and the one below and to the left of B. If I set those to be Open, the cable was alrady in that position other than the choke not fully closing. Maybe the choke is never to be fully closed when lever all the way up? It was a very small amount to get the Part A to push it closed all the way. As I said m that partially blocks hole B when set on Fast.

If someone knows if the choke should ever be fully closed on the carb let me know as I would not be surprised if it is not set to fully be closed.

Thanks

the confusing part is briggs uses that same control bracket for engines with and without a separate choke cable. On engine that use a single cable for throttle and choke, I will put the throttle control in the choke position and then pull the cable at the clamp all the way to the stop and then tighten the clamp. And then if needed bend the tab marked as A in the diagram to fully close the choke.

From the instructions the procedure that they list won't close the choke because they say to put the throttle control in the fast position, which would be the notch in the throttle control on the piece of equipment just below the choke position. Then align the hole in B when you rotate A so the hole lines up with B in the housing.

OK so if I understand you, you feel it is more important to set the choke to full close than it is to line up holes on the plate.
I have not had thus long enough to know if I need a hundred percent full choke on a cold day. Those days are coming soon in New Jersey. Where it was set seem to be correct to the specs but has pointed out was not going to close the choke 100%when the choke lever was all the way up.
And it seems that I don't quite need full choke yet as I have to back it off rather quickly. However initially if I drop it right to fast, it will search for short period. Some of told me that some of these mowers just need that warm up.. I'm still not convinced of that but as I have adjusted the valves and clean the carb and adjusted the fuel mixture screw, my cold search issue seems to be reducing but not gun and maybe they are correct that this is just how the engine is. I don't think it should be and I still don't understand everything about how this works too no why would do a surge at all.
When I saw a video of somebody mentioning the carb cleaning and then checking if the choke closes all the way I had wondered about my setting and noticed that the cable on full choke was not fully closing.

Plus my plate has all sorts of letters at holes that Don't match the diagram so I am not clear if I should be looking at different holes.
B would be R in my case.

that is why I mentions what I do for cable adjustment. Every engine is different, and what I do seems to work OK without issues. the hunting at start up is partially due to the EPA emissions standards. Today's engines have to run so lean to mean requirements that they run too lean at startup, ie, surging. An engine doesn't need as much fuel when warm to run correctly than it does when cold.

Good to know. Thanks