Can't figure it out - won't fire

x13darkmatter

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Craftsman 2005, LT2000, Model: 331877, Type: 110405ZD, Briggs & Stratton engine. This mower will not start. It turns over and sounds like it wants to. At one point, if its been sitting awhile, it sounded like it almost started. Ok, I originally a couple months ago had an issue where it would not turn over. I checked all safety switches, the solenoid, battery (brand new - never used), starter, and fuse. put it back together and it ran. Mowed the lawn twice this summer then one day about a month ago. It ran for about 10 minutes then died. This brings us to this point where it is turning over but not wanting to start. I followed a veterans tip on leaving the mower in the off, put up in the garage off stage but removed just the fuse. I checked the voltage of the battery at that time 1pm and read - 12.75v. This morning I checked the voltage and it is still reading 12.75v. I want to add that before learning the tip I was messing with the mower and had the mower in the off stage with fuse in, everything as normal, and when I came back to the mower a week or so later to tinker with it the battery was completely dead. That battery was new. I attempted to recharge it at autozone and they confirmed it was bad. That battery had only a couple mows on it from last summer. Ok so bad battery, junked it, and bought a brand new one, same type from Batteries +Plus. Where should I go from here? Also, how many times would cranking on the engine drain the battery. This happens if I do it several times and then maybe a few more times the next day. Would this be normal or should that brand new battery be able to handle several several attempts? This just bought new battery drained while attempting this. I have since, recharged it and is holding 12.75v with the fuse out. I may add that the spark plug does get spark, I am able to feel and smell a bit of fuel on it. I even placed a small amount fuel in the air filter intake but no fire. Thanks for every ones experience, knowledge and help. I have learned a lot from Taryl fixes all and other sources from the web and this forum but am now at a point of reaching out. Thanks again
 

hrdman2luv

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Craftsman 2005, LT2000, Model: 331877, Type: 110405ZD, Briggs & Stratton engine. This mower will not start. It turns over and sounds like it wants to. At one point, if its been sitting awhile, it sounded like it almost started. Ok, I originally a couple months ago had an issue where it would not turn over. I checked all safety switches, the solenoid, battery (brand new - never used), starter, and fuse. put it back together and it ran. Mowed the lawn twice this summer then one day about a month ago. It ran for about 10 minutes then died. This brings us to this point where it is turning over but not wanting to start. I followed a veterans tip on leaving the mower in the off, put up in the garage off stage but removed just the fuse. I checked the voltage of the battery at that time 1pm and read - 12.75v. This morning I checked the voltage and it is still reading 12.75v. I want to add that before learning the tip I was messing with the mower and had the mower in the off stage with fuse in, everything as normal, and when I came back to the mower a week or so later to tinker with it the battery was completely dead. That battery was new. I attempted to recharge it at autozone and they confirmed it was bad. That battery had only a couple mows on it from last summer. Ok so bad battery, junked it, and bought a brand new one, same type from Batteries +Plus. Where should I go from here? Also, how many times would cranking on the engine drain the battery. This happens if I do it several times and then maybe a few more times the next day. Would this be normal or should that brand new battery be able to handle several several attempts? This just bought new battery drained while attempting this. I have since, recharged it and is holding 12.75v with the fuse out. I may add that the spark plug does get spark, I am able to feel and smell a bit of fuel on it. I even placed a small amount fuel in the air filter intake but no fire. Thanks for every ones experience, knowledge and help. I have learned a lot from Taryl fixes all and other sources from the web and this forum but am now at a point of reaching out. Thanks again

Does your carburetor have a fuel solenoid? If it does, shut off the gas to the carb (or take the hose off) unscrew the fuel solenoid (1/2"). You can probably turn the key, with the wires connected to it, and see the plunger going up and down, as you turn key on the off. If it doesn't move, then snip the little plunger off the end of it, screw it back in. Reconnect the fuel line and see if it cranks. If it does, then you can either buy a new fuel solenoid. It'll run fine with out the plunger. But it may back fire when you kill it.

I'm guessing your problem is the carb. If the solenoid works, you might try cleaning out your carb.
 

x13darkmatter

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A friend of the family came over and did something PLUS he bought a new starter. I haven't had a chance to talk to him yet but I am told he tried his trick first with the new starter I bought but no luck. So he bought a new one. My question is does the size of the teeth matter? Or does it only matter how many? I replaced the older starter tooth for tooth. 14. But the old one did have bigger teeth compared to my new one with smaller teeth. Would this not cause it to start? if so, how or why? the engine would still turn over....
 

zman111666

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hrdman2luv has a point with the solenoid. They do stick a lot. But 99% of the time you can just clean them with some carb cleaner, and WD40, and free them up just fine. If you do need a new one, it's not too bad if you got a briggs. But the ones for Kohler are really expensive.
Also, whenever I am working on a mower with starting issues, I tend to hook up a battery charger at 10 amps while working on it, just so as not to run down the battery while fighting with it.
A good carburetor cleaning goes a long way, and you can get a cheap spark tester at Harbor Freight for $5.00.
Instead of pouring gas down the carb when I am trying to test it for fire, I like to use a squirt of carb cleaner. It's already atomized, and burns more readily, and there is less of a chance of flooding the cylinder and losing spark that way. I don't like ether starting fluids, because they are hard on the engines.
 
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bertsmobile1

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I have read this post 3 times and come to the conclusion that you must have done it after a few beers.
So to clear things up
1) dose the engine rotate when you turn the switch to start
2) if it does turn , is it fast and regular or slow & lumpy ?
3) if it rotates do you get a spark at the plug ?

4) If it does not rotate exactly what do you see, hear, & smell from the second you turn the key to the start position.
5) when you turn the switch from off to on do you hear a tiny click ? if not put your finger on the solenoid under the carb and feel for one /

Then get back to us so we know exactly what is going on.
You are there & wer are on the other side of the screen effectivly deaf dumb & blind except for what you tell us.
 

zman111666

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I just ran across one with a Briggs 17.5HP that seemed to have it all, besides the will to actually run. Turns out it had a broken push rod on the intake valve. Pull the valve cover and take a quick peek at the valves and rockers. It's a simple check, and eliminates that possibility. Had one with a bent rod a couple weeks ago. It's not that uncommon.
 
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