john deere 345 problem

jimbomower

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Hi guys,
I guess it's my time to post, and I've got a Doozie. My 20 hp water cooled john deere 345 quits running after a minute or two of running.

So far:
Removed and completely serviced the carburetor. I did this on another one so I know it's done right.

New fuel filter.

Replaced computer board

Replaced ignition module

Cleaned plugs

Compression check 90 pounds both sides

Fuel pump seems to be pumping fuel...float bowl gets filled.

I highly doubt each spark plug ignitor has a short...BUT I AM OUT OF GUESS HERE !!! ANYBODY HAVE IDEAS FOR ME ?

THANKS!
 

bertsmobile1

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A bit late now but the JD technical manual costs $ 120 and would have saved you $300 + in parts and $ 1000 in time.

Pull the air cleaner off and see if you can keep it running with SHORT AND I MEAN SHORT shots of starter fluid
yes = fuel problem
no = electrical or valve problem
If you have one that runs OK swap over the cut off solenoid in the carb. prime suspect in this case.
Put an in line plug tester ( red neon type ) on the plug leads.
Tester flashes but engine does not fire = plug or valve problem
 

jimbomower

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A bit late now but the JD technical manual costs $ 120 and would have saved you $300 + in parts and $ 1000 in time.

Pull the air cleaner off and see if you can keep it running with SHORT AND I MEAN SHORT shots of starter fluid
yes = fuel problem
no = electrical or valve problem
If you have one that runs OK swap over the cut off solenoid in the carb. prime suspect in this case.
Put an in line plug tester ( red neon type ) on the plug leads.
Tester flashes but engine does not fire = plug or valve problem



Starting fluid does nothing.

spark is weak / non existent
Mower has only 250 hours on it.

I saw a reference to a "fusable link?" last night. Any help here on this ? thanks again...I've never had to deal with one before!
 

jimbomower

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Starting fluid does nothing.

spark is weak / non existent
Mower has only 250 hours on it.

I saw a reference to a "fusable link?" last night. Any help here on this ? thanks again...I've never had to deal with one before!

250 hours on mower.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
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Nov 29, 2014
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Starting fluid does nothing.

spark is weak / non existent
Mower has only 250 hours on it.

I saw a reference to a "fusable link?" last night. Any help here on this ? thanks again...I've never had to deal with one before!

Fusable link is just that, a piece of thinner wire that that melts when too much power goes through it for too long.
Please don't tell me some numb nuts elsewhere suggested to replace the fuseable link ( fuse ) on the FH 611V engine.
If the engine cranks then it is fine because it is a fuse .
It is also in a totally different circuit and will in no way shape or form affect either the cranking of the engine or firing of the ignition as it is part of the charging circuit.

Testing these units is a PIA and way too complicated to simply talk you through.
So below is the proceedure for testing the ignition components.
The spark tester they use is the sliding electrode type which a a little pricey but you can do a work around bu putting two wire inside a clear biro tube and moving then further apart .
Just note the warning about the maximum distance you can move them apart.
print it out. read it then if there is something you do not understand, get back to us.

View attachment 345 ignition.pdf
 

Catherine

LawnWorld Support
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:welcome:

I'm going to move this thread over to our John Deere section.
 

willys55

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just a little side note: use carb cleaner or brake clean instead of starting fluid(ether) the engine you save may be your own.
 

BlazNT

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just a little side note: use carb cleaner or brake clean instead of starting fluid(ether) the engine you save may be your own.

The truth has been spoken.
 

mjb8fj

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Aug 23, 2016
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Fusable link is just that, a piece of thinner wire that that melts when too much power goes through it for too long.
Please don't tell me some numb nuts elsewhere suggested to replace the fuseable link ( fuse ) on the FH 611V engine.
If the engine cranks then it is fine because it is a fuse .
It is also in a totally different circuit and will in no way shape or form affect either the cranking of the engine or firing of the ignition as it is part of the charging circuit.

Testing these units is a PIA and way too complicated to simply talk you through.
So below is the proceedure for testing the ignition components.
The spark tester they use is the sliding electrode type which a a little pricey but you can do a work around bu putting two wire inside a clear biro tube and moving then further apart .
Just note the warning about the maximum distance you can move them apart.
print it out. read it then if there is something you do not understand, get back to us.

View attachment 33598
LOL i love that
 

TJR345

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The time delay module is a common problem with them.Left lower side about $25.
 
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