how to get a replacement mower

I have a Tank L 60 that has been in the shop or a problem that they just can't fix. The neutral control arm keeps bending and I keep taking it in under warranty. It this is the 5th time that I took it in and I replaced it 1 time myself. Every time they say that it is fixed. After 3 times at the dealer I bought it from I talked to MTD and they set me up with a different dealer. They did fix my hard starting problem and replaced the neutral arm. I picked it up and mowed once got off to move my hose and when I tried to mow some more it would not move and I could see the arm is bent again. The dealer I bought it from will only allow about a third of what I paid for it and it only has 59 hours on it. It has 12 hours of road time on my trailer going back and forth. dealer wants $125 pick up and delivery that is not reimbursable. they don't seeto want to work with me to get a replacement.

Hope this doesn't tick off Bertsmobile. This is his quote to another fellow earlier and it should work for you as well:

"Find a mower repair shop and get them to file a warranty claim form against your mower company.
Photocopy it and then send it to Kawasaki by registered mail.
Send a copy to who ever is the consumer advocate in you state.
Attitudes change quick smart once there is ink on a page.
Included in your claim to Kawasaki put the line "Please do not phone me. My attorney has advised me that all correspondence must be in writing pending further legal actions"
If they phone you or text you send them the same message back that it must be in writing or vial email.
You will get a very different response."


Good luck

OK here is the latest on the problem. I took it in and the dealer tested it and the Neutral lever failed for them after the unit warmed up. I did mention that I had this problem and it was after I mowed and used the brake and then tried to move the mower again. They got a service bulletin that addressed the problem with the drive motors not releasing all the way and locking up the dump valve. They recommended welding 2 neutral arms together and also the dump valve linkage also change the oil in the hydros and adding something called friction modifier. I will see if that helps after I mow on Monday. Just getting tired of dragging it back and forth 20 miles each way. does anybody know what a CC900 service is

Good to hear you are making some progress.
To be fair to the dealer, the payments for warranty work, rarely cover more than 2/3 the actual cost of doing the repair so most dealers end up being out of pocket doing them.
Then down here the dealer is then liable for the repair. And in most cases the dealer will get paid via a credit note off their next order.
Cold comfort to you but will explain the reluctance of them to do the work as they are sort of piggy in the middle.
Nope it goes well and sounds like it might be a problem more will be having in the future.

bertsmobile1 said:

Good to hear you are making some progress.
To be fair to the dealer, the payments for warranty work, rarely cover more than 2/3 the actual cost of doing the repair so most dealers end up being out of pocket doing them.
Then down here the dealer is then liable for the repair. And in most cases the dealer will get paid via a credit note off their next order.
Cold comfort to you but will explain the reluctance of them to do the work as they are sort of piggy in the middle.
Nope it goes well and sounds like it might be a problem more will be having in the future.

Click to expand...

Then they should explain their reluctance to service what they sold to the customer IN ADVANCE of any money changing hands.

Bert,

That sucks that downunda you don't receive full remuneration for services completed. In the US, the factories do pay for the service. They do have given hours they pay and service tips on how to achieve the repair within the given time. If, however, there are other damages caused, you can usually do a write up on the additional charges along with photographs of the parts damaged and receive the parts required and labor to install and adjust.

I think all of you need to go visit your factory CEOs in person. lol

Max

Well after mowing some I had to move the hose that goes out to the garden and even with the parking brake set it stalled and would not crank again. So I will be Taking it back in for the 6th time for this problem. The worst part is getting it loaded as I have to winch it on the trailer and make the 20 mile drive.

Well it has been a week since I picked it up. I went out to start it and the battery was totally dead and I had to jump it. It did start and I mowed for about 40 minutes pulled the parking brake and got off to move something and it died the minute I stood up. tried to start it and would not crank. I did my hold the 2 safety switches and started it to continue to mow when I noticed that the hour meter had 60 some more hours on it then it should have. I called MTD and the first tech would not even look upmy case number and hung upon me. I called back and got some foreign guy that I could almost understand he told me that the 2 problems were a wiring problem and that should fix it but I told him the linkage is bent and that is my problem. He kept telling me to take it back in and said he would call ahead to let them know I was coming. I got it loaded and drove the 22 miles this time to the place where I bought it even though I had a call into the second dealer that worked on it. When I got there they could get it started and had to bypass the safeties and their fix was to remove the safety switch but I said fine but that doesn't fix the bent linkages that had been doubled up and welded to try and fix it. I finally got them to try to get a replacement.

Flat battery and 60 unexplained hours = key not turned off properly.
We have all done it.
Some hour meters are wired in with the blades so they measure MOWING hours not running hours.
others wrap around the HT lead and measure engine running hours
And the last ones hook into the A terminal on the switch and measure the hours the ignition is turned on.

bertsmobile1 said:

Flat battery and 60 unexplained hours = key not turned off properly.
We have all done it.
Some hour meters are wired in with the blades so they measure MOWING hours not running hours.
others wrap around the HT lead and measure engine running hours
And the last ones hook into the A terminal on the switch and measure the hours the ignition is turned on.

Click to expand...

It was not the key it has to do with one of the repairs keeping the circuit open. Key was out of unit and in the cup holder