Weedeater PE550 2 cycle edger will not start..need some expert advice please

If the check valve in the main jet/nozzle sticks shut fuel cannot get through the jet to enter the venturi of the carb to be drawn into the engine. Common problem with taking apart the carbs, and the use of carb cleaner tends to make the rubber flap in the check valve swell.

If the check valve sticks shut not fuel gets into the engine. If the check valve sticks open the primer sucks air back through the open check valve in the main nozzle preventing priming.

would anyone know if a no fuel issue could be resolved by rebuilding carburetor via carb rebuold kit

or do i need to replace the carburetor

i get fuel to primer bulb but none going to combustion chamber

sorry didnt see your previous reply before i sent last message...

I would recommend trying a gasket kit(after you've checked the compression as noted in the next paragraph). I always replace when I've taken the time to pull a carb off a piece of equipment. The kits are available for around 10 bucks so for me, it's a no-brainer. The metering diaphragm and the fuel pump diaphragm are the parts that should be replaced(along with their respective gaskets). Pay attention to which side of each diaphragm the gasket goes. (metering side: carb body>gasket>diaphragm pump side: carb body>pump diaphragm>gasket ) I wouldn't recommend the full rebuild kit, just the gasket kit.

Check compression. Rule of thumb is 90+ psi for a 2 cycle. Can you pull off the muffler and peek into cylinder to see if a) the passage is clogged up with carbon deposits and b) if the cylinder walls are scored or not. Either of these conditions leads to minimal suction of fuel into the cylinder during intake. (same with a clogged muffler or spark screen) These would be good things to check before plunking money down for a new carb or a gasket kit. If you find poor compression due to a scored cylinder, it's usually time to "declare victory and move on!"

There are certainly more checks such as air leaks on the carb/intake side of things but you need to make sure you don't have a 'door stop' first.

If you don't have a compression tester, you can get an inexpensive one for $20 or so. Worth the investment if you want to keep tinkering with small engines.

Good luck

compression not an issue ...it tries to start if i pour fuel in plug hole


hi i dont know if you can help me or not but im frustrated with this pe550 edger

..am struggling bad ....have spent days on this weedeater edger...edger will not start

if i pour some fuel in spark plug hole the edger tries to start.....but if i dont do that the edger will ot try to start

the primer bulb functions as its suppose to.....i tried to start it with and without using primer bulb...it will not try to start at all.....


i have taken the carb completeyl apart and cleaned 5 times.....its clean.....nothing looks visually bad or clogged up.....

the only thing now is that the gasket from carb to manifold is messed up a bit near 1 screw hole area......but this happened later after taking apart so many times the gsket tore a bit at screw hole

this wouldnt have an effect regarding starting would it?...it didnt start when this gasket was perfect either

what should i do?

would a carb rebuild kit fix this or do i need a new carb or toss in trash

and fyi removing carb from this item is simple but removing anyhting else is virtually impossible and can not be done....poor user friendly design to say the least

cant remove muffler cant get to it....

pe550 gas edger new gaskets new carb.... still no fuel issue and wont try to start will only start if pour gas in plug hole any ideas?

update:

found issue

it wasnt carb issue

took entire engine apart and found out the problem....and now it starts and runs...installed old carb back and works fine now

2 months of headaches....craaazzzzyy

but i did learn something now...and can prob troubleshoot 2 cycle engines way better now then prior to this fiasco

thanks for anyone who may have contributed...any and alo info helps even if its not correct..

So what was the issue. It is driving me crazy too.

shelby5041 said:

i can push the primer 100 times and when i take spark plug out i see no sign of fuel....is this normal?

Click to expand...

YES

ILENGINE said:

The problem with the primer bulb carbs is there is check valves inside to make them work properly. If those check valves stick open it won't prime, and most of the time it won't start. If they stick shut you don't get any fuel into the engine.

Click to expand...

Check valves?? In a 20cc engine carb?
Wuuuuut?

shelby5041 said:

but yes i can prime 50 times and fuel just goes into bulb and excess back into tank

Click to expand...

exactly what it's supposed to do....

BlazNT said:

OK so you have an air purge bulb. IT removes air from the system. It does not prime the engine. If it did then you would flood the engine every time you pushed the bulb.

Click to expand...

Finally someone says it...

shelby5041 said:

How does fuel get into,combustion chamber then.....

Click to expand...

BY PULLING AIR THROUGH THE CARBURETOR

primerbulb120 said:

Your lawn mower carb and edger carb work differently. The mower just has a primer bulb which shoots fuel into the carb throat. The edger has both a primer bulb and a choke. The primer bulb simply removes air from the fuel lines for an easier start. The choke is used to enrich the fuel mixture. You can start a 2 cycle without the primer bulb if you pull it a few times extra (fuel pump will purge air from the lines.) You can't start a 2 cycle without choke unless you give it a shot of starting fluid.

Click to expand...

Not really. All small engine carburetors are remarkably similar.
All of them have a choke mechanism. On the cheaper lawn mowers, the choke is automatic because people who buy $150 lawn mowers can't be trusted to use a choke properly. On higher end and commercial mowers, there is a dedicated choke mechanism.

Additionally, you can start a small engine un-choked when it's cold, but it would take many pulls. Not worth it. The choke was invented to make starting MUCH easier.


I'm sorry, but this thread was such a mess to read.
I can't believe not once did anyone tell him the proper troubleshooting steps or even suggest using starting fluid. Wow.

Doesn't start?
Check ignition - on/off switch; check for spark at plug boot
Has spark?
Rule out fuel issues by artificially supplying the engine via starting fluid
Still won't run?
Check for any possible airflow obstructions - clogged/blocked air filter, intake, or possibly exhaust.
STILL won't run?
Likely blown compression. Remove spark plug and look into cylinder to check for scoring