I have had an ongoing problem with the automatic compression release on my Cub Cadet RZT 50 for 6 years now. I did not know what the problem was until this last year. I just knew that none of the factory starters would turn my engine over without lots of playing with the starter, jumping off with a truck battery etc. I took my unit to the dealer 4 or 5 times but they never found the problem. I gave up on them years ago. I had 6 years of warranty but I thought about the definition of crazy " Doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results". Hence I quit taking the unit to the dealer. A few months ago I read an article where a man stated that he had the same problem and discovered it was a faulty automatic compression release. I did not know the unit had one, otherwise I would have specifically told the dealer about it. After I found out I called the dealer and they said to bring it in and they would change out the camshaft. On my dime, of course, because my 6 years of warranty are now expired. I griped and moaned to no avail that they never found the problem years previously. They said they had a service department issue back then but, it is OK now. I have replaced the starter 3 times over the years, and it needs changing again now. It burns up with me repetitively hitting it with 500+ amps to start it. I have changed the starter solenoid to an automotive version and changed the wiring from the battery to the solenoid and to the starter to 4 gauge stranded because the factory wire would burn out in a heart beat. How do you spell frustration????? Am I the only person who has ever had this problem???
Kawasaki Automatic compression release
- Thread starter HNewmans
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The specific motor is a FR651V-AS04.
7394
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That's the Kaw engine I have in my Zero, The Comp releases are built into the cam lobes, at cranking speed, it bleeds off compression for easy engine spinning.
I'm surprised your dealer told you they did not know about this. This engine has been in continuous production for many, many years (at least).
I'm surprised your dealer told you they did not know about this. This engine has been in continuous production for many, many years (at least).
cpurvis
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You can see this if you take off the valve covers and turn the engine over by hand. The exhaust valve will have a very short duration, very small lift 'bump' opening prior to the normal opening.
The valve lash is typically only .004" to .006" on these engines. Too much valve lash (and it doesn't take much) will cause the exhaust valve to not do its 'bump' opening, thus rendering the compression release inoperative.
First thing to check in your situation is the valve clearances.
The valve lash is typically only .004" to .006" on these engines. Too much valve lash (and it doesn't take much) will cause the exhaust valve to not do its 'bump' opening, thus rendering the compression release inoperative.
First thing to check in your situation is the valve clearances.
cpurvis
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From p.64 of this link: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/856622/Kawasaki-Fh451v.html?page=64#manual
.1mm to .15mm The five V-twin models listed in this manual use this clearance.
Not saying this applies to ALL Kawasaki engines; just the ones I've come into contact with.
.1mm to .15mm The five V-twin models listed in this manual use this clearance.
Not saying this applies to ALL Kawasaki engines; just the ones I've come into contact with.
cpurvis
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Then it pays to set the valve clearance per the specification for the particular model you have. We've established there are at least two different sets of valve clearances; there may be more.