Kawasaki Automatic compression release
- Thread starter HNewmans
- Start date
I have a FR651V with similar problem "as described" by the OP. I bought this mower and was told it needed an engine but it nearly always cranks and starts. Often just a click and the starter pinion is hung in the flywheel. I did a new starter from what's generally mentioned as a responsible reseller and the issue doesn't change. This mower when running, runs well with no issues. I've mowed maybe 4+ hours with it and start it occasionally just for grins. I keep the upper cover very easy to remove so that if the pinion sticks it's a very easy turn and the pinion drops. I'd say it cranks and runs 90%+ of the time. I've considered a sale but I'd like to either fix or make the buyer aware of what the real issue is.
Has anyone replaced the camshaft in any of the FR/FS vertical engines that are similarly configured. Compression is good and the valves I checked at .002 & .004, feeler was near snug . The mower doesn't appear to have many hours. Shops in the area don't seem real well versed with anything other than more easily diagnosed issues. They don't want to talk about camshaft replacement.
Battery is 12.4+ and maybe 18 moths old.
OP - did the larger gauge cable actually help?
Has anyone replaced the camshaft in any of the FR/FS vertical engines that are similarly configured. Compression is good and the valves I checked at .002 & .004, feeler was near snug . The mower doesn't appear to have many hours. Shops in the area don't seem real well versed with anything other than more easily diagnosed issues. They don't want to talk about camshaft replacement.
Battery is 12.4+ and maybe 18 moths old.
OP - did the larger gauge cable actually help?
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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Heavier cables always help and take a ground either directly to one of the starter mounting bolts or to an extended engine mounting bolt with a nut in the top.
The ground connection can be a big problem.
If the starter gear sticks on the flywheel then pop a metal shim under the starter to space it out a little .
You can also run a disc on the top & bottom of the flywheel gears as occasionally you get little burs on the teeth.
The ground connection can be a big problem.
If the starter gear sticks on the flywheel then pop a metal shim under the starter to space it out a little .
You can also run a disc on the top & bottom of the flywheel gears as occasionally you get little burs on the teeth.
I mistook you as the OP from page 1 and PM'd you in error. The OP hasn't returned to the thread. It would be interesting if maybe he did. I've had ACR thoughts for months but dealers ain't interested in conversations. Most seem to only be interested in external parts replacements OR complete engine purchases.
I don't see that specification in any of the FR/FS/FX 651/691 engine specification manuals from Kawasaki. I haven't used/checked any link just the FSM from Kawasaki.
Twice previously you've mentioned .0002 ~.00039 and that's what I see everywhere. The Automatic Compression Release interests me most maybe and potentially a camshaft replacement.
The OP mentioned he'd done larger cables, automotive grade solenoid and it hadn't actually done much for him as years later he's into a 3d starter and the same issue. I'll think harder maybe and consider that. Considering the length of the cables I couldn't convince myself that larger cable could be an improvement.
Does anyone have a blown FR651V hanging around? An FS maybe?
7394
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This is INCORRECT info, according to Kawasaki & my Owners Manual state the FR651V valve lash is .004~.006
Sorry for posting the wrong info, I got that from a link posted here.
WVZR-1- No problem, many times someone posts a question & later never returns. That's life.
I have a Kawasaki FH730V with 600 hours, and it's had a problem with hot restart, i.e., it would not start when the engine is hot - had to wait a couple hours until engine cooled (however it would restart while hot IF I CONNECTED A BATTERY CHARGER TO BATTERY).
Based on various comments I saw in this thread, I checked the valve lash. One was 0.016" and the other three were 0.020". I set all to 0.004" and EUREKA, the restart problem was solved.
Apparently the excessive valve lash caused the compression release to be ineffective. Morale is: follow Kawasaki's maintenance recommendation to check the valve lash at 300 hour intervals.
Based on various comments I saw in this thread, I checked the valve lash. One was 0.016" and the other three were 0.020". I set all to 0.004" and EUREKA, the restart problem was solved.
Apparently the excessive valve lash caused the compression release to be ineffective. Morale is: follow Kawasaki's maintenance recommendation to check the valve lash at 300 hour intervals.