Ariens Zoom 1740 / Kohler 17hp - engine seized up
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bertsmobile1
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Well.
Sort of explains why it would not come out.
Degrease the crank then treat it with HCl to remove the welded on alloy.
Then measure the crank carefully, no use buying a short block if the crank is toast
If your mate has a mill & lathe consider a bronze bush in the case if the rest if the short block is in good nick.
Get the end of the barrel cleaned up with a ridge reamer to remove the carbon lip at the top of the bore and turn up a bush in LG 2 ( 85 Cu- 5 Sn- 5 Zn-5 Pb ).
Never had a bottom bush go before, usually the top.
You can usually get a superseeded / surplus engine from SES or SEW or Surplus center for less than a new short block.
Sort of explains why it would not come out.
Degrease the crank then treat it with HCl to remove the welded on alloy.
Then measure the crank carefully, no use buying a short block if the crank is toast
If your mate has a mill & lathe consider a bronze bush in the case if the rest if the short block is in good nick.
Get the end of the barrel cleaned up with a ridge reamer to remove the carbon lip at the top of the bore and turn up a bush in LG 2 ( 85 Cu- 5 Sn- 5 Zn-5 Pb ).
Never had a bottom bush go before, usually the top.
You can usually get a superseeded / surplus engine from SES or SEW or Surplus center for less than a new short block.
Do you have websites for the suggested? Thanks.
bertsmobile1
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Thanks. I found a shortblock for $495, but still looking.
bertsmobile1
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Depends upon your pocket and weather your time or your wallet are the most under pressure.
Several Kohlers that will fit in the $ 600- $ 700 range
You should be able to get around $ 100 to $ 200 for your old engine because there are a lot of home machinist that will weld & machine or make a bush then resell the engine going.
It does not have to be the exact same engine so you could fit one of the twin scratch & dent engines .
These will either be insurance claims of damaged in transit or manufacturer pulls .
I bought 2 pallet loads of pulls last season.
If you go to Briggs then it gets a lot cheaper
There are complete Inteks for less than the Kohler short block and they will mechanically drop strait in
Several Kohlers that will fit in the $ 600- $ 700 range
You should be able to get around $ 100 to $ 200 for your old engine because there are a lot of home machinist that will weld & machine or make a bush then resell the engine going.
It does not have to be the exact same engine so you could fit one of the twin scratch & dent engines .
These will either be insurance claims of damaged in transit or manufacturer pulls .
I bought 2 pallet loads of pulls last season.
If you go to Briggs then it gets a lot cheaper
There are complete Inteks for less than the Kohler short block and they will mechanically drop strait in
bertsmobile1
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According to Kohler
A short block is as you imagined
You will need to swap your altenator, flywheel, rectifier. starter motor fan , blower housings pushrods & head
Some come with the sump ( or top plate in your case ) some don't
A mini- block is supposed to be the same minus the crank.
However more than once I ordered a short block & got a mini block.
A lot of vendors do not seem to know the difference.
I have a good lathe & the landlord has a massive mill ( 1939 Addcock & Shipley No 19 ) can cut 1" deep x 10" wide.
We use it for boring as it is better than a lot of boring machines.
Thus if the rest of the case is good, I mill the old bush area and fit a LG 2 one machined to suit the crank.
The first couple we did we line bored to make sure the top & bottom bushes were in alignment bit we found, indexing off the crankcase joint face was good enough, except for a racing engine
$ 40 for grinding the crank ( per journal ) and $ 20 worth of bronze.
I send the cranks out for nitriding, another $ 25 and we are good to go.
I have stuffed a few but for $ 250 ( excluding my time ) I then have a replacement engine that down here I get $ 900 for
A short block is as you imagined
You will need to swap your altenator, flywheel, rectifier. starter motor fan , blower housings pushrods & head
Some come with the sump ( or top plate in your case ) some don't
A mini- block is supposed to be the same minus the crank.
However more than once I ordered a short block & got a mini block.
A lot of vendors do not seem to know the difference.
I have a good lathe & the landlord has a massive mill ( 1939 Addcock & Shipley No 19 ) can cut 1" deep x 10" wide.
We use it for boring as it is better than a lot of boring machines.
Thus if the rest of the case is good, I mill the old bush area and fit a LG 2 one machined to suit the crank.
The first couple we did we line bored to make sure the top & bottom bushes were in alignment bit we found, indexing off the crankcase joint face was good enough, except for a racing engine
$ 40 for grinding the crank ( per journal ) and $ 20 worth of bronze.
I send the cranks out for nitriding, another $ 25 and we are good to go.
I have stuffed a few but for $ 250 ( excluding my time ) I then have a replacement engine that down here I get $ 900 for
So I am almost complete swapping in a new short block.
Silly question - where does the ground terminal connect to on the chassis? I must have unhooked it along the way pulling out the engine, and I can't find any diagrams that state where exactly this should be connecting to.
I went to wire up the battery up and pulled the cable completely out.... :laughing:
Besides this, should be all set to fire up.
Silly question - where does the ground terminal connect to on the chassis? I must have unhooked it along the way pulling out the engine, and I can't find any diagrams that state where exactly this should be connecting to.
I went to wire up the battery up and pulled the cable completely out.... :laughing:
Besides this, should be all set to fire up.