PICS: Are these normal for my mower? (33114S)

Psychlopath

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2014
Threads
16
Messages
64
Taking a look around, I found a couple of things that seem a bit off to me.

First, is a picture of the chain case. Around the shaft is a C-shaped mark that, to me, looks like it could be the chain and sprocket in the final stages of wearing through this half of the case. It doesn't seem to be thin enough to bend it, though...is it supposed to be there?

Chain Case.jpg

Second, is the clutch adjustment spring. From the parts catalogs I've found online, it looks like I'm missing some parts that the spring should be attached to. Can someone confirm?

Clutch Spring.jpg

As comparison for the second picture, here is the page of the parts catalog I've been looking at and I think that reference number 14 is missing some bits on mine.
 

Mow Joe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Threads
1
Messages
151
Your assumption on the first picture is correct. The chain is rubbing the inside of the differential case and is nearly worn through. This is caused by excessive end play, usually from a broken hex washer on the left (opposite) side of the mower. Pull the boot back and see if the washer is in pieces, loose inside the boot. Under normal conditions the chain does not touch the case.

I don't see anything abnormal in the second picture.
 

Psychlopath

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2014
Threads
16
Messages
64
Thanks for that! This is a new case half I put on because the old had a wear pattern similar, but all the way through, by a long ways. I didn't remember seeing any sort of relief when I installed the new one (but I didn't really pay attention to that), so I got concerned. Good to know that I found a problem before it could become a catastrophe.

I'll pull that case half and check for chain wear while I'm there and look for those washers you mentioned. Obviously there's some sort of issue.

It's a bit dark right now so I can't go out and check, but from the parts catalogs, it looks like the washers are nylon. I don't have a hilly yard, but I also can't remember replacing those washers when I replaced the case half, so maybe they are just not there.

Do you think there'd be any issue with building that area up with a weld bead and grinding it flat, as opposed to replacing the case half again? Aside from having to paint again, I can't think of any problems it would cause.
 

Mow Joe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Threads
1
Messages
151
If it's not worn through to the point of leaking it may be ok just to leave it alone. I don't see any issue with repairing it as you said either. Fixing the end play is key. The hex washers are METAL. One is inside the differential case and the other is on the other (left) side of the mower, against the nylon shims and wheel bushing. The one on the left side of the mower is most likely broken or missing completely.
 

Psychlopath

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2014
Threads
16
Messages
64
The one on the left side of the mower is most likely broken or missing completely.

Mow Joe,

You were at least half right, and that's just so-far. I pulled the L/H fender to get a look in there. It's missing the hex washer, referenced here as number eight.

Looks like need to tear into the diff to check for the other one as well.

Also found a torn boot on the left.

On this page, it looks like I'm also missing numbers 28 & 29, but I'm having a little trouble seeing exactly where they go. It looks like they go on the inside of the L/H fender, up against the pressed in bushing, but I don't see what would hold them there, so maybe they go inside of the chain case? If that's the case, should I be able to see them in there when I remove it to check for the other hex washer, so I don't need to open it up just to check?
 

Mow Joe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Threads
1
Messages
151
That reference #8 is very misleading. That washer actually goes all the way up the hex shaft against the sprocket. It is inside the differential.

You are missing #29 which is the same part as #6 in the exploded differential diagram. At this point I would not disassemble the differential, as it may be ok with the exception of the worn part. Get two of part #11072 hex thrust washer and 3-4 of #11071 nylon washer. Install one of the 11072 in the exposed end of the hex tube, along with one of the nylon washers. If you still have endplay, cut a V notch in additional washers and push them in between the metal and nylon washers until it won't accept another one. I don't think I have ever seen it take more than a couple of nylon washers. The other hex washer inside the differential is most likely ok, but if not, that's why I told you to order two. Maybe you should get a gasket as well.
 

Psychlopath

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2014
Threads
16
Messages
64
I thought I'd let you know, Mow Joe, that it looks like you were spot on. I finally got everything (except my replacement boot) in today and went to put it together to check the fit. The hex washer, which was described as "Poly," in the notes, is steel and seems to have straightened things out and it doesn't look like I needed any of the plastic spacers so far. It's tough to tell for now, as several of the bolt holes wound up stripped out...I'm going to go get new hardware tomorrow and see if I can't slap this thing together and have some alignment going on!

The large bushing that presses into the fender is slightly ovaled out, but I think it may be serviceable for a while yet. The one I replaced had worn all the way through the bushing and into the fender itself and mostly seemed to work when I first got this thing, so I think my current one is OK for now.

Anyhow, thanks for pointing out the correct part numbers; I may not have needed them all, but I would have wound up buying all the wrong stuff if you hadn't pointed out what you did!
 
Top