Carb or fuel pump issue on resurrected B&S?

The resurrected B&S v-twin ran fine for about 15 minutes cutting grass and then just stalled out. The new fuel filter was dry when it shut down. Had about 1/3 tank of fuel. Thought either had a fuel pump issue or vacuum issue. Blew out some crusties from the fuel cap and allowed engine to cool and fuel filter to fill. Didn't see any cracks in the fuel pump vacuum line and not leaks evident when I blew in one end with other plugged.
After a couple of hours of cool down, could get the engine to fire for only a few seconds.

Tomorrow going to look at the fuel pump, but not certain if it can be disassembled and cleaned or if it's common for them to go bad. Is there an impeller inside? Best to test on the mower?

Could it be a carb issue. I cleaned it before getting the motor running.

Kill line are not connected to coils, for now. They are taped and stowed away.

IF it is an impulse pump it is not servicable.
Although some can be dissasembled there are no parts available.

An impulse pump has a diaphragm, a spring and a check valve.
They very rarely go bad other than the diaphragm splitting in which case then become a vent for the crankcase .

Your problem will most likely be a plug of crud blocking off the fuel outlet in the fuel tank

bertsmobile1 said:

IF it is an impulse pump it is not servicable.
Although some can be dissasembled there are no parts available.

An impulse pump has a diaphragm, a spring and a check valve.
They very rarely go bad other than the diaphragm splitting in which case then become a vent for the crankcase .

Your problem will most likely be a plug of crud blocking off the fuel outlet in the fuel tank

Click to expand...

It doesn't appear to be a fuel tank or fuel pump issue. I disconnected the hose at the pump and drained the tank through it. The fuel flow was strong. Removed the hose from the tank and found no clog. Blew through hoses; no stoppage. Reconnected, filled tank and disconnected hose at carb to test pump. Cranked engine and saw good flow from hose/pump.

I found another bare spot on the fuel solenoid wire and taped it. Still won't fire. The only time I can get it to fire is when gas is drizzled down the breather and then it will only stay running for a second or two (sorry don't know the metric conversion for seconds, ha). I'm thinking it's a fuel solenoid issue, maybe being caused by that front harness. Can the solenoid be easily tested.
I'm going to buy some wire and replace that gray wire on the solenoid.

Also, I recall reading that these carbs tend to flood easily. Doesn't sound like a flooded carb to me because I have to add fuel to get it to fire. However, have to ask.

The solenoids have the same threads as the old bowl bolts so the easiest test is to get a bowl bolt & swap them.
Without the solenoid you will have to throttle down to a low idle before you shut off or you will get a big after fire from the muffler.
That is throttle down then shut off.
Do not wait for excessive amount of time because the engine tends to overheat when running at a low idle after being used at full throttle.
The other alternative is to fit an inline tap up stream of the fuel filter or pump.
The position is not important but if it is upstream then you can shut down the fuel supply when changing, pumps or filters or cleaning the carb.

bertsmobile1 said:

The solenoids have the same threads as the old bowl bolts so the easiest test is to get a bowl bolt & swap them.
Without the solenoid you will have to throttle down to a low idle before you shut off or you will get a big after fire from the muffler.
That is throttle down then shut off.
Do not wait for excessive amount of time because the engine tends to overheat when running at a low idle after being used at full throttle.
The other alternative is to fit an inline tap up stream of the fuel filter or pump.
The position is not important but if it is upstream then you can shut down the fuel supply when changing, pumps or filters or cleaning the carb.

Click to expand...

That's good to know. Thanks.
After cutting out the taped section of the solenoid wire and splicing in a longer piece, and rerouting, she ran fine.

Now my issue is the variator drive or "transmission". I tightened up the "Go" pedal/pully after my first test drive and that seemed to help things. Even while cutting grass yesterday it was rolling good in both gears. Although it would lurch forward after a sharp turn. Today it didn't want to roll at all, so I tighted up the GO pedal again. The pedal is tight, but still the mower takes a minute to get into gear and begin rolling, then it will jump into gear. Nearly bucked me off. Does this sound like a belt issue or a "transmission" issue.