Husqvana YT46LS Options

Fred_T

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Hi
I am strongly considering a Husqvana YT46LS. I have come across 2 different configurations, Both the same price on sale at $2.149.
Option 1- With a 18 hp FR600V Kawasaki Engine and standard blades
Option 2 - With a 24 HP KOHLER 7000 series engine and "Quick Release" Blades
Both have a Locking differential
Cutting a bit less than an acre of grass. Not hilly, more flat with contours.

I have had good luck with my current KOHLER Command Pro 13 hp engine in my 18+ year old Husky LTH 130 so I am leaning towards the KOHLER
because of the added HP. Not a fan of the quick release, not sure its a viable set up long term. I hear the Kawi is a better engine though
the FR version is not top of the line and has a weaker air filter set up. Concerned about lower horse power with a 46 inch deck turning both rear wheels
Any thoughts on what would be the better option would be appreciated.
Thanks much
 

Fred_T

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Also meant to add, don't really need the Locking Transaxle but figured with all the other add ons, a good deal.
Any thoughts on the pros and cons also helpful..thx
 

motoman

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Double check the "locking" differential feature as it may be a limited slip, if that is significant to you. Also suggest do not rely on verbal model descriptions from dealers without double checking Husqy literature.
 

bertsmobile1

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Unless you are pasture cutting 2' tall grass the extra Hp means nothing.
Just like with cars it is 99% a sales feature that makes little difference to the machine.
When assesing engines it is torque that is important and the flatter the torque curve and lower down the rev range the max torque is the easier the engine will power your mower.
Hydro trannies gobble up power.
I have some old 8Hp 30" mowers with mechanical drives that run rings around most modern mowers in both cutting speed & quality of cut.
They are making a big ho-har about those quick change blades down here which as far as I can see is an expensive solution to a problem that does not exist.
The big problem with Huskies is the frail housing which breaks a lug every time you smack into a low gutter or tree stump.
If you mow regularly then look at the max cutting speed x the deck width x 0.7 and that is the real mowing rate.
So divide that into your property size to get a better idea of how long each will take to mow your grass.
 

Fred_T

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Thank you bertsmobile1. I am cutting a little less than an acre. Wanted the 46 inch deck to quicken the job a bit and attach a triple bagger for fall leaves. I get it...HP vs Torque. So the 18 HP Kawi will more than likely get the job done and is not under powered for the size deck and Locking differential? Not sure if the FR600V vs the 7000 series kohler outweighs the HP difference in terms of engine quality and reliability. I am told the KAWI is a better engine but it still is a consumer not commercial engine. So they are telling me at the store that has both tractors what you said... HP does not really matter.
Its engine quality and KAWI is better...Curious as to what you are referring to re the mower deck. Are you referring to the spindles/mandrels. I definitely do not want the Rapid Release blades...I'm hearing they are more a of a pain and most are swapping them out...Thx
 

Fred_T

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Said differently, I guess I would forgo the 6 HP difference if I knew the KAWI was a much better engine. I'm hearing that not sure its the case as this engine series has only been out 3-4 years and the same is true of the 7000 series KOHLER. I am hearing that's been a pretty good engine this far. Better than a Briggs intek and not as good as the KAWI... Should I go with the KAWI over the Kohler?? thx
 

bertsmobile1

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It's a moot point, heads I win tails you loose.
The kawakasi is supposedly a better engine but I don't see much difference.
Kawakasi parts are a lot more expensive than Kohler parts.
if you are not punishing your mower both should do the job standing on their heads.
Run both and listen to the engine, from what have seen the kawakasi has a better muffler.
Neither have what I would call a great air filteration system. but the Donaldson type double element filter will bolt strait on the kwakka and the Surplus Center is currently listing them for less than what I pay for the filter elements.
What I don't like about them is the spindle housing , part 14 in this diagram http://www.ereplacementparts.com/husqvarna-yt46ls-96043015000-garden-tractor-parts-c-114486_117796_290409.html the mounting is not good , they break at the arms when the bolts are and require cleaning to work properly.

As for a large deck. they can be more of a curse than good.
The bigger the deck the more it will tilt when you turn thus tend to scalp on the inside of turns.
Scalping is also worse on "undulating" lawns.
Then there is access to small spaces .
Work out the width of you yard then divide it by 44", allowing 2" overlap each pass ( 6" is closer to the point ) but leave it at 2 for now.
That is the number of passes you will need to do to mow your lawn with a 46" deck
Then do the same using 40" that is the number of passes using a 42" deck.
Usually the difference between the two numbers will be less than 1.
In many cases using a wider deck actually takes more time than a smaller deck particularly if using the wider deck means more hand cutting with a push mower or trimming with a line trimmer.
 

Fred_T

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Thanks motorman. I believe its a locking unit...meaning both wheels spin. I also spoke to Tuff Torq CS to validate how the unit works
 

Fred_T

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It's a moot point, heads I win tails you loose.
The kawakasi is supposedly a better engine but I don't see much difference.
Kawakasi parts are a lot more expensive than Kohler parts.
if you are not punishing your mower both should do the job standing on their heads.
Run both and listen to the engine, from what have seen the kawakasi has a better muffler.
Neither have what I would call a great air filteration system. but the Donaldson type double element filter will bolt strait on the kwakka and the Surplus Center is currently listing them for less than what I pay for the filter elements.
What I don't like about them is the spindle housing , part 14 in this diagram http://www.ereplacementparts.com/husqvarna-yt46ls-96043015000-garden-tractor-parts-c-114486_117796_290409.html the mounting is not good , they break at the arms when the bolts are and require cleaning to work properly.

As for a large deck. they can be more of a curse than good.
The bigger the deck the more it will tilt when you turn thus tend to scalp on the inside of turns.
Scalping is also worse on "undulating" lawns.
Then there is access to small spaces .
Work out the width of you yard then divide it by 44", allowing 2" overlap each pass ( 6" is closer to the point ) but leave it at 2 for now.
That is the number of passes you will need to do to mow your lawn with a 46" deck
Then do the same using 40" that is the number of passes using a 42" deck.
Usually the difference between the two numbers will be less than 1.
In many cases using a wider deck actually takes more time than a smaller deck particularly if using the wider deck means more hand cutting with a push mower or trimming with a line trimmer.

Thanks ...lots to consider. If I go 46, hopefully having the 4 anti scalping wheels will help. Storage also an issue. Makes it into the storage shed with about 4 inches to spare with a bagger. I'll look at the spindle your referenced. Appreciate all the help!
 

BlazNT

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My 10-year-old Husqvarna has had only one broken spindle. That metal pipe did not give up but the spindle did.
 
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