On a 1998 10525 3-speed transmission, should it roll backwards if in gear?

So while cutting the grass today I noticed that if I put the transmission in any of the gears that it would not roll backwards. One wheel would lock which allows you to pivot. I assume this might be by design but wanted to check. In order to actually be able to go back and forth I have to put the transmission into Neutral.

Is this just how they are setup? Or should it roll backwards even if it is in gear?

No, it should roll backwards while in gear. I'd remove the rear wheels and clean out the area of the pinion gear and wheel gear. Give the zerk fittings a shot of grease. Another item to check is put blocks of 2 x 4 under the deck (to raise the rear wheels off the ground) and try to rotate the axle by hand,,,can you move it freely in both directions? If not the tranny might be bad.

Regards

Jeff

I had the same problem on a free mower I got. After I got it running, I tried it out and it would not pull backwards without dragging one or both back wheels.
I solved the problem by taking off the back wheels one at a time and cleaning off all the little pieces on the axle. On the lawn boy master parts viewer there is a diagram that shows all clips,springs,washers and what not that goes on the end of the axle.
https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/back2lst.cfm?xCaller=LawnBoy&o=2&x=20838 Click on 200% to see the diagram bigger.
There was so much grease and crud packed in these parts that the rocking key wouldn't work with the other parts. I just cleaned off each little piece and put them back on it the correct order and gave the grease fitting a pump of grease and it worked like new again. The rear axle diagram is a big help in putting all parts back in the same order. Just lay each piece out in a row in the order you take them out. I took everything off down to part # 22 the pivot washer arm.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
PS, be careful taking off the two retaining clips, they have a tendency to fly across the garage.

Jerry

Sounds like something new to do this weekend.

The only real wear item are the friction washers that are basically specialized O-rings, when they wear out the mower will kick to one direction while drive is engaged, lack of grease will cause the friction washers to wear. What happens is one side is not driving, They are pretty cheap.

Would that be these:

65-4760 - WASHER-CLUTCH
65-4710 - RING-FRICTION

The 'washer' is against the pinion gear and the 'ring' is against the washer. Should I just replace them both since it's only like $4 total per side?

Kumba said:

Would that be these:

65-4760 - WASHER-CLUTCH
65-4710 - RING-FRICTION

The 'washer' is against the pinion gear and the 'ring' is against the washer. Should I just replace them both since it's only like $4 total per side?

Click to expand...

Ring-Friction-

The plastic washer clutch is pretty durable, but like you said they are only 4 dollars, cannot hurt to change everything.