Carb. repair

cambre

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I have a B&S 18 HP Intek & need an overhaul kit or new carb. I cannot find either one, but some look very similar. Carb. is Nikki 697216 G02703. The ones that look similar are 698620, 698787, 790032, 796184 & others. Does anyone know if any of these would work or what will interchange. Thanks for any help.
 

Boobala

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Here's an inexpensive kit that should work... Carb kits fit many different models about the only problem would be to be sure of
correct holes / openings in the gaskets and installing items properly positioned ...patience and attention to detail ..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW6Y8E6?psc=1

you can find other kits up to $50.00 -$60.00 it's up to you ...

also you can check this out ...http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp

OH FORGOT .. take lots of pics of what you work on ... the pics will be like a manual for you later ,..saves MAJOR
HEADACHES down the road ..you can always delete..... but 1 pic may save hours of searching !!
 
Last edited:

TobyU

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That is the most common Nikki style however I have seen another one on briggs that uses a different gasket. The complicated one with all the cutouts.
Nikkis usually don't need rebuilt. Just clean out the jet and spray off rest and put new needle valve to seal off gas flow so it won't flood crankcase with fuel.
The inlet sealing surface is plastic and seems to last better than the brass walbros.
 

cambre

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Aug 2, 2014
Threads
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Here's an inexpensive kit that should work... Carb kits fit many different models about the only problem would be to be sure of
correct holes / openings in the gaskets and installing items properly positioned ...patience and attention to detail ..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW6Y8E6?psc=1

you can find other kits up to $50.00 -$60.00 it's up to you ...

also you can check this out ...http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp

OH FORGOT .. take lots of pics of what you work on ... the pics will be like a manual for you later ,..saves MAJOR
HEADACHES down the road ..you can always delete..... but 1 pic may save hours of searching !!

Thanks Boobala, The info you sent solves my problem. You are right about taking iphone pics, they really help. Remember the Kohler twin I have with over 2000 hrs on it? It now has 2408 hrs. You wanted me to keep you posted about this. Thanks again for info.
 

cambre

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Aug 2, 2014
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That is the most common Nikki style however I have seen another one on briggs that uses a different gasket. The complicated one with all the cutouts.
Nikkis usually don't need rebuilt. Just clean out the jet and spray off rest and put new needle valve to seal off gas flow so it won't flood crankcase with fuel.
The inlet sealing surface is plastic and seems to last better than the brass walbros.

Thanks for the answer TobyU, The engine runs OK but when it is shut off fuel gets in the cylinder head & will not crank. I have to take the plug out & blow fuel out, then it will start. I first thought it was the electric shut off because the rubber tip looked bad. I took it off & plugged bowl with a bolt. Still flooded cylinder head so I put a fuel shut off valve on & run carb. dry before I park it. I did take carb. apart & clean but did not solve the problem. Hope a kit will fix it, if it does it will be a cheap fix, if not I will get a new carb. Thanks again for the info.
 

bertsmobile1

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Get a fuel tap and fit it in the fuel line between the tank & the fuel filter so it makes changing the filter easier as well as stoping the carb flooding while the engine is standing in our shed.

The fuel shut off on the bottom only stops fuel going into the main jet.
If the float does not cut the fuel supply off the bowl overfills and fuel runs out of the air vent, trickles down the throat and fills up the cylinder.
The easy way to check the shut off solenoid is to start the engine then disconnect the cut out wire.
If the shut off solenoid is working the engine will stop when you turn the switch off ( don't forget to reconnect the kill wire ).
 

cambre

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Get a fuel tap and fit it in the fuel line between the tank & the fuel filter so it makes changing the filter easier as well as stoping the carb flooding while the engine is standing in our shed.

The fuel shut off on the bottom only stops fuel going into the main jet.
If the float does not cut the fuel supply off the bowl overfills and fuel runs out of the air vent, trickles down the throat and fills up the cylinder.
The easy way to check the shut off solenoid is to start the engine then disconnect the cut out wire.
If the shut off solenoid is working the engine will stop when you turn the switch off ( don't forget to reconnect the kill wire ).

Thanks bertsmobile1, Thanks for the answer, I always learn something new from you.
 
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