john deere l130 NO CRANK NO START

Dustinkerr

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Apr 23, 2017
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no start no crank ,,,, will do nothing with the key switch except you can hear the fule relay click ,
break and pto and seat and reverse switch are good , hour meter is good
if you jump the soliniod the engine will only crank , but will not start .no spark
if I unhook the key switch then jump the solenoid then the engine starts right up and runs ,
iv checked everything I can think of .. any ideas?
 
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Rivets

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LawnRanger and I put this procedure together for problems like your's. Follow it and post back with tractor and engine model and serial numbers.



I wrote this procedure with tractor style mowers in mind but this works on zero turn mowers as well. For a zero turn mower, the steering levers must be out, parking brake engaged and the PTO switch in the off position. Some mowers have an operator presence switch in the seat and you may need an assistant to sit in the seat while performing the following tests.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things:

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions. Ahem.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and test/verify everything.

Remember, I cannot see what you are doing. You are the eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools I will ask you to use are a test light and a multimeter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, make sure the parking brake is engaged and the PTO switch is in the off position. Physically remove the negative battery cable first and then the positive battery cable and clean both the battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. Reinstall cables after cleaning starting with the positive first and then the negative. Next, turn the key to the run position, check all fuses with a grounded test light should light on both sides of fuse. Check battery voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Believe it or not, this first step will take the most amount of time, usually around five minutes and the rest of the steps can be accomplished in under a minute.

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show battery voltage on a meter at all times.

Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring. You should have battery voltage on this small solenoid wire when the key switch is held in the start position.

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). You should have battery voltage on this terminal when the key is held in the start position.

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). You should have battery voltage during this test.

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery. Just like the battery, make sure connections are clean and tight. Very Important!

This procedure is a simple starting point and there is more to it so after you have gone through each of the above steps, let me know what happened when you performed each test. At that point I will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are the eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible. Some lawnmowers use a relay in the starter control circuit so keep that in mind.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. I prefer to use voltage drop tests but some people get too confused over this subject so in an effort to keep it simple, for now, just follow the procedure and report back with your findings.
 

Dustinkerr

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2017
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OK , Thank you very much , I will do all this first thing in the morning and report back , THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME

LawnRanger and I put this procedure together for problems like your's. Follow it and post back with tractor and engine model and serial numbers.



I wrote this procedure with tractor style mowers in mind but this works on zero turn mowers as well. For a zero turn mower, the steering levers must be out, parking brake engaged and the PTO switch in the off position. Some mowers have an operator presence switch in the seat and you may need an assistant to sit in the seat while performing the following tests.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things:

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions. Ahem.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and test/verify everything.

Remember, I cannot see what you are doing. You are the eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools I will ask you to use are a test light and a multimeter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, make sure the parking brake is engaged and the PTO switch is in the off position. Physically remove the negative battery cable first and then the positive battery cable and clean both the battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. Reinstall cables after cleaning starting with the positive first and then the negative. Next, turn the key to the run position, check all fuses with a grounded test light should light on both sides of fuse. Check battery voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Believe it or not, this first step will take the most amount of time, usually around five minutes and the rest of the steps can be accomplished in under a minute.

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show battery voltage on a meter at all times.

Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring. You should have battery voltage on this small solenoid wire when the key switch is held in the start position.

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). You should have battery voltage on this terminal when the key is held in the start position.

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). You should have battery voltage during this test.

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery. Just like the battery, make sure connections are clean and tight. Very Important!

This procedure is a simple starting point and there is more to it so after you have gone through each of the above steps, let me know what happened when you performed each test. At that point I will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are the eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible. Some lawnmowers use a relay in the starter control circuit so keep that in mind.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. I prefer to use voltage drop tests but some people get too confused over this subject so in an effort to keep it simple, for now, just follow the procedure and report back with your findings.
 

Dustinkerr

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Joined
Apr 23, 2017
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ok all done

1st step cleaned battery cables and terminals on battery with 12.16 volts at the battery

,checked the only fuse I could find it checked good with 12.20 volts on each side

2nd checked voltage from battery to the terminal on solenoid with 12.2 volts

3rd checked small wire on 4 pole solenoid with break set pressed PTO not engaged key in start position and got 10.8 volts , and 10.8 volts on other small wire

4th checked voltage on other big wire on solenoid with a result of 0 volts

5th checked voltage at starter with no voltage at starter with key in start position

checked ground back to battery , this checks out good
I hope I have been clear and if not let me know what other info you may need to help me out , again Thank you very much !!!!
 

cpurvis

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Aug 25, 2015
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LawnRanger and I put this procedure together for problems like your's. Follow it and post back with tractor and engine model and serial numbers.



I wrote this procedure with tractor style mowers in mind but this works on zero turn mowers as well. For a zero turn mower, the steering levers must be out, parking brake engaged and the PTO switch in the off position. Some mowers have an operator presence switch in the seat and you may need an assistant to sit in the seat while performing the following tests.

Electrical problems ...

If this isn't a sticky, it ought to be.
 

Rivets

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One more test. Turn the key switch to run and jump the solenoid as you said you did in your first post. You should be able to start your unit. If the unit starts, your problem is a bad solenoid, which will need to be replaced.
 

Dustinkerr

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when I set the key to the run position and jump the soilinoid It cranks but will not start ,,, IE no spark ,,, but if I unhook the igniton switch , then jump the solenoid it will start right up and run
 

Rivets

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To me that indicates a possibility of two bad components. Bad key switch and bad solenoid. From the tests I would say the solenoid is bad for sure. I would replace it first and then replace the key switch if needed. Because as a tech, I can control the parks, I have the luxury of swapping out parts, which you probably can not return the purchased parts. I would try one more test on the solenoid before replacing it. Run a jump lead from the positive battery post to the small terminal on the solenoid coming from the switch. If the starter turns over then the solenoid should be good and then I would replace the switch first. Finally, triple check everything we have done to get to this point. These parts can get pricey and I cannot see what is going on, so you must be certain and not trust solely what I am telling you. I was wrong at least one time in the past. Read my signature. Good Luck, maybe someone else has a better idea, we'll see.

After I hit reply, thought of one other possibility. Does this unit have a circuit board mounted inline somewhere after the switch? If it does, stop and post back. If not continue.
 
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Dustinkerr

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THanks for your advice ,,, just so you know , I have a known good switch on hand that when I try that I get the same symptoms ,, and as far as jumping the small wire to the solenoid to the battery , I have already did that , and when I jump it to the battery I get nothing ,,
that's why I was kinda confused , because as I was told when I got this mower the solenoid was new ,,,,, it even looks new , but I suppose it ould be bad ,

ill try a new solenoid and report back just to let you know
Again Thank you so very much!!!!
 

Rivets

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The key switch will control engine spark, that is why I am thinking it may be bad. Good key switch, but no spark would indicate bad coil. Just another thought, wish I was standing there, would make it easier.
 
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