john deere l130 NO CRANK NO START

Probably not the coil, as he says if he takes the ignition switch completely out of the picture, then jumps it, it runs.

The 12.2 to 10.8 voltage drop tells me there is some corrosion/loose connectors some place in the system. Going from the battery to the solenoid should cause it to crank the engine. But since you have a 4 terminal solenoid, the problem could be downstream from the solenoid. Some solenoids are wired directly to the key switch, but the safety switches prevent completing the circuit.

I just broke rule #1 when working with electricity, NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING. I assumed that all connections would have been checked prior to testing. I'm bad. IL makes a good point and I'm going to insert checking connections into the procedure. Thanks IL.

Your welcome Rivets. Glad I could assist.

yeah , that's what has me fooled , the coil is good , it will run if the switch is unplugged ,, and I have a known good switch that I have swapped out , and I get the same results ,,
but the solenoid is bad for sure so ill replace that and see what happens

so every thing starting at the key switch thru the pto switch thru the break switch is good, it is a good circuit ,,, there are two black wires on the other small post of the solenoid , I will double chech to see where they go , ,I do know they are grounded out when I check with a meter ,,,so ill look at those aswell

Just a couple observations reading the thread.

In post 4, you indicate your 3rd check showed voltage on both small wires of the solenoid. You should only have voltage on the purple wire. The two black wires on the other side are grounded. The voltage between the black wires and ground should be 0. You may have an open ground. (one of those black wires makes its way to the ignition switch G terminal and the other goes to ground)

In post 7, you stated that if you unhook the ignition switch and jump the solenoid, it will start and run. I'm not sure how it could run hardly at all because disconnecting the ignition switch removes the power source to the fuel shutoff solenoid. When the solenoid is not powered, it shuts off fuel delivery in the carb.

As an FYI, when the Ign Sw is Off, the M terminal with the white wire attached is connected to the G terminal with the black wires attached. The black wires are grounded all the time. The white wire goes to the two coils. When the Ign Sw is Off, the coils are grounded, and hence the motor shuts off. When the Ign Sw is in any other position (run w/lights, run w/o lights, start), the G terminal is NOT connected to the M terminal. This allows the coils to fire. So, knowing this you can test this portion of the Ign Sw by disconnecting it and measuring the resistance between the M and G terminals with the key in all 4 positions. Starting with the key off, you should see 0, inf, inf, inf as you move the key. (inf is infinite or open circuit).

You can continue checking the Ign Sw and verify the start and run operation of it. Battery voltage comes into the B terminal via a red wire. It comes out of the A1 terminal to the yellow wires. If you check the resistance between the B and the A1, you should read inf, 0,0,0 starting in the off position. Inside the Ign Sw, the B terminal also connects to the S terminal that the purple wire is connected to. Checking resistance between B and S, you should read inf,inf,inf,0 starting in the off position. Summarizing, battery voltage is supplied to the A1 terminal(yellow wires) during run and start modes. Battery voltage is supplied to the S terminal(purple wire) only during start mode.

If your solenoid is good, you should be able to jump from the battery to the small terminal where the purple wire connects to the solenoid and the engine should turn over. Assuming the Ign Sw is good, the engine will not start (but will turn over) with the key in the off position, and it should start with the key in either run position. (PTO off, Brake set of course). If the solenoid does not kick in when you do this, either it is bad OR, you have a bad ground (or both!).

Let us know what you find!

thank you , I will check this out , and as I stated befor the solenoid is bad for sure , new onw will be here today, and yes , if I unhook the key switch completely and jump the two big teminals on the solenoid the engine starts right up , I didn't let t run long, so possibly its just running on what gas is in the carb bowl ,, but when I get the new solenoid on I will post an up date ,
thank you so much

This is not part of your problem, but for the sake of completely checking the Ign Sw and understanding what all the connections 'do', there are two other wires connected to it and they are both yellow/white. They are used for the headlights. Power comes into the L terminal which connects to the A2 terminal. This only happens when the Ign Sw is in the Run with Lights position. Therefore, if you check the resistance between the L and A2 terminals(both have wires colored yellow/white connected to them), you should read inf,0,inf,inf starting in the off position. So that explains what each of the 7 wires connected to the Ign Sw does.

FYI...

Ok guys First ,, Thnak you all for all the help!!
Second , PROBLEM RESOLVED!!! , I instlled a good Solenoid and still had the same problem ,, however upon rechecking all wireing I did find a broke ground wire on the back side of the engine , was a wire coming off the solenoid ,, thank you so mmuch