Husqvarna M-ZT 52 starting issue

Dpots

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I have a two year old mower that I have intermitent starting issues- I turn the key and nothing happens. I have learned that if I work the drive handles around, I can eventually get it to fire up. I am thinking there must be some sort of switch for the hydralic handles that completes the curcuit if they are in the neutral position? Maybe that is out of alignment? I know there was one for the brake as that had to be adjusted when it would kill once I would advance the hydralic levers into motion. Just looking for some thoughts on this.

Not real impressed with the unit so far because of these issues. The dealer I bought it from is useless and won't even return my calls so I am on my own with this. Very frustrating to spend $5000 on something and get this sort of service/product!

Thanks,
Dave
 

NorthBama

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there is a switch for each handle
 

Dpots

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I'm guessing they are located where the arms pivot? The brake switch had a plastic cap that had to be pushed in to activate- I am thinking these are the same?
 

bertsmobile1

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I'm guessing they are located where the arms pivot? The brake switch had a plastic cap that had to be pushed in to activate- I am thinking these are the same?

Yep,
Cheap and chintzy plastic switches that you need to be a contortionist to get at.
Some have adjustment slots and some don't.
You can download the parts diagrams and then find the switches.
I oft need to open out the mounting holes to get some to work .
Just be careful that you get the correct switches, there are a few different ones but they all look the same.
 

Bicklebok

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I have the same issue with my Husq PZT48. So far not impressed with the quality of the mower.

If it's an intermittent problem like mine, it sure makes it hard to diagnose. You have a switch on each drive lever, one for the brake, and one on the seat. Make sure the switches are plugged in good. In my case, the brake switch was not plugged to the harness very well which caused intermittent no start- poor design by Hursqvarna. I also had a problem with my main fuse being corroded and not completing the circuit. Check that too.
 

jth737

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I have a 2013 MZ5225 and had similar problems ever since new. Sometimes would crank normally ( and start) and other times either nothing or 1/2 turn of engine and stop cranking. I eventually installed a permanent hot jumper, to the starter solenoid, thru a momentary contact push button switch. This bypasses all of the electrical safety switches and, essentially, hot wires the starter. I also replaced the OEM battery with the highest amp O'Reilly battery in the same case size ( about $47.00 ). I still have an occasional problem where the ignition switch won't turn the engine over but just a touch to the push button bypass she's off and running. I'm convinced that the entire electrical system was made with the cheapest components available. Several weeks ago the mower died completely after 5 minutes of mowing - finally traced problem to the main 20 amp fuse holder (L/S of seat behind L/H steering arm. The fuse holder was melted beyond recognition ! Still don't know why ! Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

bertsmobile1

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Cranking circuit is designed to protect the engine from too much load at start up.
In the old real gear box days it also prevented starting in gear & accidentially running down whatever was ahead of you with the blades running.
Fuses melting is due to prolonged high load ( amps ) just not enough to blow the fuse.
On ZTR's 99% of the time it s a bad ground.
Clean the ground terminal, bolt & chassis do it up tight then paint over with liquid electrical tape to prevent further corrosion.
Running a battery with more CCA makes this worse,
Consider running another ground to an engine mounting bolt or a starter mounting bolt.
You will be amazed at the difference it makes.

Also check the alternator recti-frier ground contact, they oft break then spark making a very high current load.
 
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