B & S Engine Mower Running Rough

BlazNT

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Spring is broken. Part number 114-7924
 

Kennykenny

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The cable housing doesn't slide in the holder, does it? I don't see how a cable can work if the housing is free to move.

I guess I am still a bit confused about how there is tension on the cable when, as you stated in this post, " I don't see how a cable can work if the housing is free to move."
 

cpurvis

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I guess I am still a bit confused about how there is tension on the cable when, as you stated in this post, " I don't see how a cable can work if the housing is free to move."

I think primerbulb120 may be right.

This "cable" arrangement works differently than a normal cable. In a normal cable, the cable itself is what moves whatever it is that needs to be moved. In this application, the cable housing is what does the work. Since the end of the cable is fastened to an immovable fitting on the engine, when one operates the operator presence bar, the cable itself is trying to pull on something that can't move. Because the cable end cannot move, the cable housing must move toward the cable end. When it does, it pushes the moveable kill switch/blade brake lever on the engine.

So I think primerbulb120 is exactly right--the cable housing must be free to move. Not loose in space as it is now, but held in its holder in a manner which lets it slide forward.

When you think about it, this is a pretty ingenious use of a cable. I would have never thought of it but it saves a lot of cable length and also having to make a 180 degree bend in the cable if it were to be used in a normal fashion.
 

Kennykenny

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I think primerbulb120 may be right.

This "cable" arrangement works differently than a normal cable. In a normal cable, the cable itself is what moves whatever it is that needs to be moved. In this application, the cable housing is what does the work. Since the end of the cable is fastened to an immovable fitting on the engine, when one operates the operator presence bar, the cable itself is trying to pull on something that can't move. Because the cable end cannot move, the cable housing must move toward the cable end. When it does, it pushes the moveable kill switch/blade brake lever on the engine.

So I think primerbulb120 is exactly right--the cable housing must be free to move. Not loose in space as it is now, but held in its holder in a manner which lets it slide forward.

When you think about it, this is a pretty ingenious use of a cable. I would have never thought of it but it saves a lot of cable length and also having to make a 180 degree bend in the cable if it were to be used in a normal fashion.


I got it!!! Back in business. Thank you to all for the assistance.:thumbsup:
 

primerbulb120

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:dance1::thumbsup:

The cable housing has to slide freely in that plastic holder on the handle. Reason being, the Personal Pace mechanism slides up and down on the handle, and the cable is attached to the Personal Pace mechanism. If the cable was secured firmly to the handle, you wouldn't be able to activate the self propel.
 

Kennykenny

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:dance1::thumbsup:

The cable housing has to slide freely in that plastic holder on the handle. Reason being, the Personal Pace mechanism slides up and down on the handle, and the cable is attached to the Personal Pace mechanism. If the cable was secured firmly to the handle, you wouldn't be able to activate the self propel.

Hey Primer, I'm back again with the same mower and more issues. The mower ran throughout this mowing season but I now can't get it to start at all. I pull and pull with no luck. I replaced the spark plug with a brand new one recently and believe it or not it started once but after that one time I couldn't get it to start again.

What suggestions do you have of something that I can try? Thanks!
 
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I have read all 8 pages of this saga. Wow what a pisser for you to go thru all that and now it doesn't run ~!~!

Do you have spark ?? If you don't then your cable is more than likely bad. The cable you have to use to start and kill the mower when you take your hand off of the handle. It is not traveling all the way.

That is one likely thing............ If you have spark then take the air filter off and squirt GAS in the carb with a old DAWN bottle. It will give you a good straight squirt in the carb. NEVER EVER use starting fluid.

If your choke is closed open it by hand and squirt the gas in it. Try to start it. If it don't start then you have a compression issue. Maybe ................

Did you take the head off the engine ?? If you did you should have put a new gasket on it and torqued it to specs.

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
 

Kennykenny

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I have read all 8 pages of this saga. Wow what a pisser for you to go thru all that and now it doesn't run ~!~!

Do you have spark ?? If you don't then your cable is more than likely bad. The cable you have to use to start and kill the mower when you take your hand off of the handle. It is not traveling all the way.

That is one likely thing............ If you have spark then take the air filter off and squirt GAS in the carb with a old DAWN bottle. It will give you a good straight squirt in the carb. NEVER EVER use starting fluid.

If your choke is closed open it by hand and squirt the gas in it. Try to start it. If it don't start then you have a compression issue. Maybe ................

Did you take the head off the engine ?? If you did you should have put a new gasket on it and torqued it to specs.

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

I checked for spark...had a spark. I squirted gas in the carb. The mower started for a second or two and then died and wouldn't start again. No, I did not remove the head off of the engine.
 
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Time for another carb clean Are you taking the old seat out when you put a kit in it ??
 

primerbulb120

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I checked for spark...had a spark. I squirted gas in the carb. The mower started for a second or two and then died and wouldn't start again. No, I did not remove the head off of the engine.

Sorry, didn't see this thread until now. By "wouldn't start again", you mean that it won't fire at all even if you give it starting fluid?
 
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