Old Lawn boy will stall while mowing

Lawnboy77

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You are very welcome, glad to help. I'm not sure if there is a video on Youtube regarding replacement of the seals, however I know there are videos on removing the blade adapter. Of course you have the link here on the maintenance manual for the F series, I'll post a link below again if you don't. I suggest just reading through it really good. I'll also give you my cliff notes on the job, hope it helps! SAFETY FIRST! DISCONNECT THE SPARK WIRE PRIOR TO DOING ANY WORK ON THE MOWER. You can expect a bit of a challenge in getting the adapter off, and don't be surprised if it breaks in the process. If that adapter hasn't been removed for years you can expect it to be rusted in place and somewhat tough to remove. Heat, penetrating fluid and pressure is your friend. Pressure is via a big hammer and large brass punch, or pitman arm puller (The puller is what I use) No problem though, those adapters are still available through Toro, or aftermarket sources for a decent price if it gets bent, or damaged during removal. The process will be fairly straight forward. After the blade and adapter are removed, remove the 3 bolts securing the muffler and crank support to the muffler plate. Once the muffler is removed you can access the 4 ea. 1/2" bolts that secure the crankcase to the muffler plate, remove those while supporting the engine. Once the engine is removed it is just a matter of prying the seal out with a small common tip screwdriver by carefully prying in between the seal and crank. Those old F series cranks are tough, but if you want to wrap the screwdriver tip with some masking tape that would be fine. You obviously want to avoid scratching the sealing surface on the crank too much, or else the sealing maybe effected once you get the new seal installed. Once the old seal is removed just clean the crank in the sealing areas with emory cloth or scotch brite, or similar, nothing that is too aggressive though. Clean the area with some brake parts cleaner or similar, rubs some fresh oil on the inner sealing surface of the new seal and drive in place using a piece of PVC pipe that is about the same diameter as the seal and approx 12 inches long (needs to be long enough to clear the end of the crank), then drive in the seal with a mallet striking the PVC pipe until the seal is in just below the chamfer in the crankcase (about 1/8" below). Don't bottom it out in the recess, or else you run the risk of damaging the seal. When you put it all back together use a good anti-seize compound on the blade adapter-to-crank mating surface, "Never-seize" is a great brand and is what we use at my workplace, a good molybdenum disulfide grease (aka MolyB grease) is good to use as well. This will make removal of the adapter so easy the next time you have to remove it.


https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/Acrobat/manuals/lball.html

As far as the chute and bag options, you have a couple of options available. You can either mount a rear bagger setup to that model, or you can use the old school side bag set up with the prop rod that mounts to the RH rear handle bracket and goes through a hole in the deck, and at the top end holds the bag via a hook. This side bag option is probably the most popular and most available, the rear bag option is kinda rare and expensive if you can even find it on ebay. If you want to look at the rear bag option just look on Partstree.com, parts lookup for Lawn-boy model number 0292A, it list the rear bag parts drawing that would work for your machine.
 
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trock1985

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wow, thanks again for the help, i will be checking out your info and reading

I def wanted the old school, side bag and chute. but wasnt sure where to get them for my mower or if they still existed. always wanted one with the side bag, just like in the old days!

i found this one one amazon but didn't know if it would work or not

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...fl_title_30?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2RAAENK7AU3GY


thank you!
 

Lawnboy77

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Yes that one should work for you. Below is my side bagger setup, which would also work for you, basically the only difference is the prop rod coming from the deck as opposed to the new one that you posted coming off the handle and the way the bag attaches to the chute, it doesn't use the black plastic slip over connection. You see these original setups on ebay quite often for a decent price. Hopefully this pic below will work, the last time I tried to post a pic it was a no-go.



 

trock1985

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oh, off the handle? dang i want one like yours lol

off the deck

I will keep trying to find one, any suggestions on where to get one?
 

Lawnboy77

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I think ebay will be your best bet. Here are some listings that are currently on ebay. The bagger rod will typically be the most expensive item to purchase since it's still sold new by Toro/Lawnboy for around 90 bucks, you don't need a new one though, there are plenty of good used ones to be had on ebay much cheaper, or if you happen to live in area where Lawnboy parts are plentiful then you maybe able to pick up one at a local shop cheap. The older chutes like the ones in these listings are what you are looking for if you use the old school bags with just the metal wire frame on mating end. The one listing for the Cleveland Canvas bag is a great deal for the money, it's aftermarket and good quality and fit if you don't mind using aftermarket bags. It's plain white so you can stencil whatever logo you want to reproduce period correct Lawnboy graphics if you want. That's what I did on my 1966 restore. I'll try and post a pic below of that example just to give you ideas.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Boy-Mo...403554?hash=item4b15a0bfa2:g:4yAAAOSwSypY86ri
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Boy-Mo...398929?hash=item4b15a0ad91:g:zxkAAOSw7U5Y86ml
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Boy-Side-Bag-Chute-/322484899267?hash=item4b15990dc3:g:T84AAOSwvKtY8oSC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bag-Designe...553302?hash=item4399777b96:g:rncAAOSwcWdTdM84

Below is a link for the whole kit, plus a mulch plug, 85 bucks for used equipment is kinda steep in my opinion. You can probably do better by buying these parts individually.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Boy-Si...763188?hash=item33cc3b3074:g:WI8AAOSww3tY66j2
 

trock1985

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Very cool, I will check it out

I talked to a small engine mower repair shop and they suggested loosening the gas cap? to just try it. something about a vapor lock?

I re cleaned the entire carb again and started looking into the seals and things like that and ended up calling this shop who does work on old lawn boys. im not sure what that even means? loosen it? wont it keep spinning and sill gas?

should the little hole be clean? when i have mowed recently with a full tank the gas spits up and out of the little hole.

starting to get a little frustrated since I though I could have it fixed by now, and it wouldn't mow this weekend at all, same thing, starts fine, sounds good, mows for a couple minutes then just dies, prime it again twice, starts right up, same thing over and over.
 

trock1985

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Im also going to pull the muffler and clean it soon. i dont have a grill though, can i cook it on my stove without issue in the kitchen? wasnt sure about fumes etc but its the only hot thing i have right now

thanks
 

lewb

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Very cool, I will check it out

I talked to a small engine mower repair shop and they suggested loosening the gas cap? to just try it. something about a vapor lock?

I re cleaned the entire carb again and started looking into the seals and things like that and ended up calling this shop who does work on old lawn boys. im not sure what that even means? loosen it? wont it keep spinning and sill gas?

should the little hole be clean? when i have mowed recently with a full tank the gas spits up and out of the little hole.

starting to get a little frustrated since I though I could have it fixed by now, and it wouldn't mow this weekend at all, same thing, starts fine, sounds good, mows for a couple minutes then just dies, prime it again twice, starts right up, same thing over and over.

If you have gas coming out of pressure relief of cap I would logically assume you have pressure being created. The reed valves could be issue. Even though the reeds may appear fine they might have lost enough tension and do not seal. It could also be from leaky crank shaft seals (top and bottom of crank). I believe you can change the seals with out taking motor apart, The reeds you have to take case apart to replace them, If you replaced the reeds and seals, maybe worn rings, should also do a compression check at any rate. Good luck
 

Lawnboy77

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Don't clean mufflers in the oven. We don't want to read about a house fire from someone cleaning a 2 stroke muffler in their home.
 

trock1985

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ha, thanks wont clean it on the stove then.

thanks for the help, trying to find all the stuff on the reed valves and seals.

I would love to get this mower working again. if it continues though I will look for another one for nwo to get me thru the season and work on this on the side

thanks everyone!
 
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