Flooding Carberator

I have a ten year old Huskee lawn tractor with an 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton I/C Twin engine on it. It has served me well every since I bought it new. Last summer it started occasionally flooding it'self. It always flooded easy from the time that I bought it. I just learned to stay away from the choke.
At the end of the summer last year it started flooding all the time. It would start if you let it set for a day or so, but would immediately flood seconds after it started. The gas continues to run out of the carburetor even after the engine shuts down. It will drain the tank if I don't shut the fuel off. Completely unusable!
The carburetor it one with the float around the bore. The gas that is flooding it is coming out of two small holes on the top rim of the carberator, inside of where the breather assembly sets.
I've worked on about everything in my life time, so I ordered a carburetor rebuild kit, took it off the engine, cleaned it, and was very careful to put back together right with all the new parts they sent me. No luck! It's floods just the same way it did before I rebuilt the carburetor.
Any advice I can get from the people on this forum would be greatly appreciated! I'm trying to decide whether to buy a new carburetor or a new mower. I'm afraid that there might be something wrong with this engine and not the carburetor. Maybe something in the valves? Just don't know!

I 'm sure these links might help you ....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE/view

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_v-twin_carb.asp ......... THIS has 2 parts to it

Taryl seems like a WACKO BUT... he is very intelligent ..it's a "show"..

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=taryl+rebuilds+briggs+twin+carburetor

PATIENCE when rebuilding a carb ...it's important ...Boobala

I had similar problem with a different 18.5hp B&S engine. Cleaning the carburetor would solve the problem for a while, then it would flood again. The only sure way to stop that is to add a $5 fuel cut-off valve between the tank and the carburetor and shut the valve off when not in use.

panabiker said:

I had similar problem with a different 18.5hp B&S engine. Cleaning the carburetor would solve the problem for a while, then it would flood again. The only sure way to stop that is to add a $5 fuel cut-off valve between the tank and the carburetor and shut the valve off when not in use.

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I already installed a shut off valve. The carberator floods anytime the valve is in the on position and will not run more than a few seconds whether the valve is off or on. The only thing the shut off valve helped, is I can keep the fuel from continuing to run out of the breather after the engine has stopped. Not after I have shut it off with the switch, but after it has flooded it'self.

JH60 said:

I already installed a shut off valve. The carberator floods anytime the valve is in the on position and will not run more than a few seconds whether the valve is off or on. The only thing the shut off valve helped, is I can keep the fuel from continuing to run out of the breather after the engine has stopped. Not after I have shut it off with the switch, but after it has flooded it'self.

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Carbs flood mainly because the needle doesn't seat all the way. Therefore allowing gas to flood the carb. I would imagine the seat and/or needle needs to be cleaned. The float needs to be adjusted. Could be that the needle as come out of the floats cradle.

hrdman2luv said:

Carbs flood mainly because the needle doesn't seat all the way. Therefore allowing gas to flood the carb. I would imagine the seat and/or needle needs to be cleaned. The float needs to be adjusted. Could be that the needle as come out of the floats cradle.

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Where do I find the measurements for the float adjustment?

Did the kit that was purchased contain a new float ? Probably not, but the float must float to function. Check it. Well DUH, and the majority of rebuild kits are a rip off. Plastic floats are not usually adjustable and don't need be anyway. With the carb. upside down the float should appear parallel to the carb. body. If it is leave er be.

With the carburetor off, check the needle valve function by attaching a short hose to the fuel inlet and fill with water. With a feather light touch on the float holding the needle valve closed it should hold the water back. If not, you ain't done.

Thanks to everyone for the advice! I did get it fixed, finally. There was not a float in the rebuild kit. The 12 year old one must have been warped or something. Ordered a new one, installed it and it is running fine.:licking::licking: