Deck Leveling Gauge

cashman

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In an earlier post I said I used a small engine valve spring compressor and it worked fine for years. I also used an inside caliper. On the older Snapper RER's, uneven cut was a common complaint on mowers brought into the shop. Especially if the customer used a grass catcher. A Snapper factory guy told us that the blade should cut approx 1/4" to 3/8" lower in the front than in the rear so that the blade didn't have to double cut. And always level from side to side.
 

mhavanti

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This is a new one on me. So these decks are warping so bad you are getting a in-even cut. The only way I can think of to test for such a happening is to strip the deck and lay it on a flat surface. Just where do these decks warp?? So just how do you test for a warped deck when a customer comes into your shop? Or are they warping where the spindle housing fastens to the deck housing? If this is the case how do you repair it, shim the spindle housing so the blade is level? Is there a repair? You are saying just a linkage adjustment??? So you have a warped deck with two or three blades just how do you make them all level?? I just don't see these linkage adjustments on the low end mowers?? I don't see spindle adjustments on any mower other then a Ferris???

Reynoldson,

Here is one way to do it and it is time consuming, but, very effective if you have a "big hammer" and couple pieces of wood and fairly decent biceps, triceps, back and abdominal muscles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSwcf_-APXI

If nothing else, you may find that entertaining.

Max
 

bertsmobile1

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Reynoldson,

Here is one way to do it and it is time consuming, but, very effective if you have a "big hammer" and couple pieces of wood and fairly decent biceps, triceps, back and abdominal muscles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSwcf_-APXI

If nothing else, you may find that entertaining.

Max

Do it all the time, particularly with the pressed decks from AYP that use the 3 point spindle mount.
I am seriously considering making some jigs to fit into the log splitter to sort them out.
Down here the bare pressing is near $ 1000 OZ ( $ 750 US ) then add an hour for swapping all of the fittings over and another hour for fitting the deck.
A couple of hundred for belts & a pulley or two and you are getting to the price of a Chinese made Murray.
 

7394

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Re: Blades Leveling Gauge

In an earlier post I said I used a small engine valve spring compressor and it worked fine for years. I also used an inside caliper. On the older Snapper RER's, uneven cut was a common complaint on mowers brought into the shop. Especially if the customer used a grass catcher. A Snapper factory guy told us that the blade should cut approx 1/4" to 3/8" lower in the front than in the rear so that the blade didn't have to double cut. And always level from side to side.

Yep, true & in everyones Owners Manual. I set the slope to 1/8" that is with my weight on my Zero. Anal, probably, but it makes a 1/8" difference. So after properly inflating my tires if I set the front to 1/4" lower than rear, then it is actually 1/8" lower with me on it & just exactly as I like it.
 

Mad Mackie

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I found pics of my deck leveling/blade height tools.
The yellow JD gauge and my homemade blade height tool.
The homemade tool is a 3/8-16 threaded rod connector nut, bolt with jam nut on the top and a washing machine foot bolt with the plastic shoe removed.
The reason behind the 3/8-16 is that for each full turn of the nut is 1/16th of an inch so a fairly precise adjustment can be done. This one is adjustable from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in 1/16th" increments. Check out the pics.
 

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reynoldston

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Reynoldson,

Here is one way to do it and it is time consuming, but, very effective if you have a "big hammer" and couple pieces of wood and fairly decent biceps, triceps, back and abdominal muscles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSwcf_-APXI

If nothing else, you may find that entertaining.

Max

Taryl wouldn't last one day working in my shop before I showed him the door out. Ponding on a big punch with a big rose bud and no safety glasses. He has no safety standards what so ever.
 

mhavanti

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I think that goes without saying. Anybody in business knows the importance of safety above all else. But then, his videos are entertainment as well as informational for those you and I are trying to help. He used to preface his videos with a safety statement which is for all intents and purposes to give the DIYer and idea that they are not invincible and helps keep his liability lower.

Regardless, if the deck is warped, that is one way to put it back into alignment. Another is shimming the arbors, not recommended unless you cut triangular shims and that isn't cost effective.

I'm a straight forward shop, do it right, one time, you're done and customers may if one is lucky, speak nice about you. The entertainment part only brings discourse a person may not want.

Have a great day one and all.

Max
 

bertsmobile1

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I found pics of my deck leveling/blade height tools.
The yellow JD gauge and my homemade blade height tool.
The homemade tool is a 3/8-16 threaded rod connector nut, bolt with jam nut on the top and a washing machine foot bolt with the plastic shoe removed.
The reason behind the 3/8-16 is that for each full turn of the nut is 1/16th of an inch so a fairly precise adjustment can be done. This one is adjustable from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in 1/16th" increments. Check out the pics.

Now that is smart.
Got all them in the shop, never thought of doing it that way as I generally use a wooden block and educated eyeball.
 

SeniorCitizen

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After seeing all the methods, I'll be staying with my no hassle styrofoam coffee cup strip and a pencil to label L to R, F to B, left side, F to B right side with a pencil line for reference through the first mark the blade leaves. Thanks for all the other suggestions.
 

SeniorCitizen

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The reason behind the 3/8-16 is that for each full turn of the nut is 1/16th of an inch so a fairly precise adjustment can be done. This one is adjustable from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in 1/16th" increments. Check out the pics.

This is the reason I wouldn't own a drill press without an adjustable depth stop and quill lock. Been using the 1/16" thread pitch to bore holes a precise depth for years.
 
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