I bought my mower in May of 2013 and it has developed what I will call a "dead short" issue when attempting to start. Turn the key and nothing as if there were no battery at all. If I work (engage and disengage) the blade knob you'll hear the solenoid "click" and sometimes that will be all it takes, turn the key off and on again and starts up. Other times I do this a couple of times before I am able to get it started and still at others I have to work the break several times or engage the park break lever trying the key as I go before it will start. Of late however I have been setting the part break when I am finished mowing and the next time it starts on the first try. Occasionally this doesn't work either and I have to work all the above before I can get the mower to start. All this leads me to believe there is a "short" of some sort with one of the safety switches associated with the under side linkages and I'm leaning toward the one associated with the break pedal. Anyone else have this experience and have the cure?
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Repairs "Dead Short" issue with my YTH24K48
- Thread starter SFE
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Export threadThis is what is called an electrical gremlin, you know its there, but can't find him. Sounds to me you have a connection problem, not a part problem. The first thing I would be checking is the negative battery cable connections at both ends. Make sure they are clean and tight?? Here is a procedure a LawnRanger and I put together which can be used to find your gremlin. You are going to have some problems in using it, because it does start at times, which says everything is good. At least it will give you some things to check. Number 4 is most important.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
knpmccracken@gmail.com
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have similar problem I use screw drive to connect terminals on solenoid and it starts is the spleniod bad
bertsmobile1
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have similar problem I use screw drive to connect terminals on solenoid and it starts is the spleniod bad
If you have 1 small terminal it should show 12V with the ignition switch in start position, and the body should be ground.
If it has 2 small terminals , one should show + 12 V ( to an independant ground point ) as above and the other should go closed circuit to ground in start mode.
The terminals are not polarity sensitive , the body on 2 terminal solenoids should be isolated and on some the ground is not switched.
So with a pair of jumpers ( normal hook up wire is fine ) test the solenoid by hooking 12V to a terminal, ground to the other.
Just because it clicks does not mean it is good as the internal connections can burn so make sure it turns over the engine fast enough to start it.
One terminal solenoids ground through the mounting bolts and these are generally corroded & not making good ground.
IF you do not get proper voltages through your mowers wiring (12V on 1 ground on the other ) then your mower has a wiring problem that needs to be addressed.