Repairs 2000 LX279 w/Kawasaki V-Twin Liquid Cooled !!

This mower has been a horse for 15 years !! Mobil 1, filter and NGK plugs new at the start of every season; grease the deck after every 2-3 uses and always drive it easily !! Today, I'm halfway thru cutting my 3 acres when it just stops - no sputter, no cough, no nothing !! After nre fuel made no difference, I realized I could run it a short distance fully choked so I limped back to my shed. Using normal starting procedure, it starts instantly but releasing the choke causes it to die in seconds. Put a half can of Seafoam in and let it sit for awhile. If I start it and don't release the choke, it'll run as long as it's fully choked. I figured it was either the filter or a dirty carb altho I'd think after 15 years of flawless operation, there would be some sort of warning, but maybe not. Is it necessary to remove the radiator and the gray plastic piece under it to get to the carb ??? Can't even see it, but it's obviously tucked under that plastic piece up front !! Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated !! TIA. Christian

its been awhile since I have done one, but remove air filter, unplug spark plugs, then use a 10mm wrench and remove those two nuts for carb, and that grey air intake neck. I use to just have to lift up the engine shroud just a little to pull that neck out. There is a big o-ring inside that neck to seal it from dirt so don't use anything to pry with when you remove it. remove the choke cables and throttle cable from the control plate. The sucky part comes up-mark the governor shaft and linkage with a paint pen. then use that 10mm wrench again and loosen that (you may have to use a crappy screwdriver to spread the opening a little), and that governor plate, linkage and carb all come off as a unit before you can rotate the linkages off from the carb. When dissasmbling the carb, use really good screwdrivers that fit the jets and other parts. Cheap screwdrivers will tear that brass up, and then your looking at a new carb. All the screws and jets and basically the guts of the carb are made to use J.I.S (Japanese Industrial Standard, or Japanese Industrial Screwdriver) tools. I myself have stripped a lot out before I learned that. What is a good screwdriver that wont strip it out? Snap on screwdrivers work well, Older Mac screwdrivers, old craftsman do ok, or if you find JIS screwdrivers (not many places will have them, its usually an online order for them). I have learned the hard way about screwdrivers (THEE most abused tool in the tool box) and I have switched to use a screwdriver for just screws, not prying. Ok that might have been a little rant, and maybe some over the top information- But just trying to help you out. The carb removal from the engine, eh not too bad. Disassambly of the carb, not bad- if you take your time with it.