Hustler Raptor zero turn just got click.

Guys my Raptor just goes click when I turn the ignition.
All the controls are where they should be correct position for start.
This has happened a few times but the mower always started by jiggling the fwd/aft levers.
The battery is fully charged I suspect the safety switches?
Any other owner had or have this problem?
It's only two years old already been to the shop but now it will cost $60 to get it there.
Thanks
Cyber

When you turn the mower on you should get 2 clicks.
One from the fuel solenoid and one from the starter solenoid.
Sounds very much like you have a bad connection and most probably the ground.
The model number of the Raptor would be a help and the make & model number of the engine would be even more of a help.

Remove the spark plugs and try rotating the engine by hand ( ignition off ).
If nothing squirts out of the plug hole, try with the starter.
The plugs should be grounded and as far away from the plug hole as possible ( fire risk ).

If you can not turn the engine over by hand remove the flywheel and check for crud jambed between the magnets & stator.

If you can turn the engine over by hand bridge the terminal on the starter solenoid.
Engine turns = problem with the electrics
Engine don't turn = bad connections or duff starter

Thank you, I only get the one click when I turn to start,I will have to bridge the starter solenoid I will also by pass the safety switches see if it that.

cyberphobia said:

Thank you, I only get the one click when I turn to start,I will have to bridge the starter solenoid I will also by pass the safety switches see if it that.

Click to expand...

Please do not go bypassing the safety switches.
The way to check is to test the wires going to the starting solenoid.
If it has 2 ( small ) control wires 1 should show 12V when the key is in the start position.
The other should show continuity to ground when the key is in the start position.

The 12 V comes from the hot wire on the solenoid ( most times ) goes through a fuse then to the B ( battery ) terminal on the ignition switch which connects to the S ( start) terminal flows to the PTO switch,where it gets diverted to the solenoid.
The ground goes through both the lap bars and the brake switch.

THE SEAT SWITCH IS NOT IN THE STARTING CIRCUIT PLEASE LEAVE IT ALONE

Was not thinking of the seat switch but the Lap Switches.
Sometimes the mower started by jiggling those up and down slightly.
But I will T/S the start switch and solenoid.
Only going to isolate the safety switches for trouble shooting not bypass them permanently.

I might be stupid but I'm not Bloody Stupid.:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Thanks for the advise

Graham

EXPAT POMMIE Now escaped Mother England.

It is some thing that regulars on here are always miffed at.
People who have no idea about how to fix a mower come on and list what their problem is then proudly announce that they have disabled the seat switch as if it is some sort of badge of honour. :confused2:
Hence the rather bold scream. I decided to do this when ever applicable and hopefully it will eventually sink in to casual browsers . Nothing personal meant by it.

You don't need to touch any switch till you have isolated the problem and are in the diagnosis phase.
What I overlooked was to see if the solenoid is firing by checking the starter power wire for 12 V when in the start position.
Starters very rarely actually go open circuit.
Same as with a car solenoid, bridge the power terminals on the solenoid with an old spannar or the jaws of a jumper lead ( careful where the other end is ).
Some of the switches on lap bars seem prone to breaking the plungers of the switch but they are best left alone till you have to touch them and from memory they are a bitch to get at.
Also it is very easy to end up sending voltage down the magneto cut out wire which fries the chip in the module $$$$$$., so back probing is the way to go if you are double jointed

Ponced about all Sunday Morning got 12V where it should be right down to the starter motor, checked the freedom of the engine,turned the key nothing just a bloody click.
So I got out the screw driver by passed the solenoid and she started bugger me I said aloud :ashamed: bought a new SS will fit it on my next day off.
:confused2:

The reason why the Solenoid is fitted is you get a big arc when you power the starter motor.
Big arc same as arc welding , lots of heat and burned contacts.
The solenoid simply switches really quickly, a lot quicker than we mortals can do by hand to limit the amount of arcing to a minimum.
However a small amount of crud can slow it down resulting in burned contacts.
Rip the old one apart and have a little look.

It's a sealed unit.I replaced the starter solenoid and the Raptor starts every time.
:laughing: