Tecumseh ohv13 203206a looking for carb

Hey Everyone-

I am new here and have a question. I thought this would be easy, finding an inexpensive replacement carb for this old engine however things are not looking too good.

The number stamped on the carb is 1556E5K. Strange I cant find info on this carb using those numbers.

I have found that a carb number 632774 is a direct replacement YET when shopping for a replacement online I see some carbs which claim to be a replacement but have a prime button which mine doesnt have.

Due to my application, (restoring a craftsman LT100) one of the cheap no name carbs would be ideal JUST to prove the motor and then the transmission etc are in working order before continuing on throwing $$s into the project.

The insides of the carb look as if the previos owner of this engine stored the engine in the ocean. Its really corroded and is perhaps another project at another time.

Would anyone know of a place to get a carb that is just good enough to do the testing?

BTW, the date code on the engine is 5150 D is this an 2005 engine?

Thank you very much

Tony

Any chance you can clean and rebuilt the carb? Look up soda blasting on You Tube to see how lots of folks clean off/out a carb. Soaking it in a can of cleaner also works.
Tom

Tom- its a good idea to rebuild this carb. I have done a handfull of rebuilds in the past, usually effective and simple enough. Hardest part is getting the gaskets. The welch plugs are stressful because the kits only have one. I should look around to see if the plugs are available separately.

Heading to youtube to checkout the agressive soaking, thanks for the tip?

You can check the engine to see if it will run by giving it a shot of ether. I have started them that way without a carb but it won't run long. If it does run you could pour some gas in the carb and it will run a little longer and maybe be able to check the transmission. I have bought several engine with no carb and found one off a junk yard engine and adapted it to fit on the engine. Attached are pictures, I hope I uploaded them correctly, of my log splitter with an 11 HP Briggs with a 16 HP carb. The elbow in the 2nd picture originally pointed down. I turned it up and made an adapter out of 1/2 inch steel and mounted the 16 HP carb to the elbow. The 3rd picture shows the throttle linkage. The governor spring is at the bottom and the link between the throttle nad the carb is a piece of coat hanger. It been running about 15 years this way. The carb can be off any model engine as long as it is some what close in HP.

Hey Dana-

Thats quite a setup, hope it runs another bunch of yrs for ya.

A larger or smaller carb will probably work reasonably well to great providing it has adjustable main jets I would guess.

I had ordered a carb, however not the right carb or anywhere close to right. The carbs were listed 120, 125, 130, 135 etc. I couldnt imagine the size of a Tecumseh 120hp engine so figured it must be 12.0, 12.5, 13.0, 13.5 etc.
The carb showed up and it was a monster ! It was for a 130hp engine!

Since I posted last, i have cleaned the carb out again. Its still the nastiest thing I ever saw. It ran much beyond the fuel I would schpritz in the carb throat. I felt like the wizard of oz operating the choke and throttle trying to keep it running! In the morning i will need to 'maybe' attach the choke cable instead of running both the throttle AND choke off the one throttle cable. IT WILL DEFINITELY be easier.

I will need to replace the bowl gasket as its extra brittle and leaks a bit.

Tomorrow may be the day I have it running long enough to test the trans.

BTW, thanks for the pics, they came through perfect .

Tony

The direct replacement for your carb is 632650. It does not have a primer.

Tony
Holy crap, I didn't know Tecumseh made big engines either.
I looked up the number Rivets provided and ebay has one that supposedly replaces that number. Your engine number is listed as one it will fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-63...32684-632469-RandysEngineRepair-/131036391625
Tecumseh went out of business and parts are getting hard to find.
When I clean out carbs I use the little wire bread ties to clean out those little passages. Also the double wire tie on the little bag of Hostess donuts works good too as it is a little heavier wire. Then blow them out with carb cleaner and air, just an FYI.
Good luck
Dana

Hey Rivets and Dana-

Thanks for the carb info, I looked on the net and found several and good prices.

The carb I have has two linkages, one for the choke and one for the throttle.

I see some carbs with only what appears to be the throttle mechanism, how do ya go about choking that one?

I cleaned the original card aggressively last nite.

This morning I put it in and ran all over the yard with it. It proved the hydo trans is good!

Wish i had a vid when the exhaust started smoking really bad when I first fired it up. It was oil and other gunk. Then flames and pieces were coming out. I had to scramble to get the mower out of the garage in case it was gonna go up in flames big time.

I didnt want to hose a hot engine off so i used my leather gloves to smolder it.

It smoked for a long time thereafter.

When it cooled, i cranked it up again and burning pieces of a wasps nest were shooting out of the exhaust! What a releif it wasnt buring engine parts.

I made a vid of it running and driving through the yard. I am sure my tempory water bottle fuel tank will bring a few comments?.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbsayk5vdp1gyms/Video Sep 08, 10 59 17 AM.mov?dl=0

Reason for the water bottle is because The mower tank is under the seat. The bottom of the tank is 13 inches off the ground. The inlet to the carb is almost 16 inches. The blown brigs engine had a fuel pump so the elevation didnt matter.

Now that this engine has proven itself today, i will get a gasket kit for the carb and modify the fuel tank some. I need to test how much fuel I need to add to existing tank to have fuel flow at carb level. Three inches is the answer?.

Sorry for the typos, i sure know how to spell, just cant type well on this fone.

Have a good evening

Tony

I believe when there is only one cable full throttle chokes the engine and when it starts you pull the throttle back to adjust the engine speed. From the looks of things you don't need a carb. It looked like it ran really good. Are you ready to do some mowing? What are you going to do about the gas tank? Just keep it full?

Dana-

I can see the reason they decided to move the tank under the seat instead of the battery. Its the price of wire vs fuel line.

I have three thoughts on how to remedy this situation, one is to keep tank full as you indicated. That is probably the easiest. Another idea is to move the battery back under seat and co-locate another tank where battery was. Lastly, use a fuel pump. I have a brigs fuel pump which gets pressure/vacuum off the valve cover hose. I would hate to modify the tec valve cover, especially not knowing it would even operate the fuel pump properly.

After making that vid, a few hours later, the carb started acting up again. The morning run proved its got potential, now just need to perfect it.

This is just a fun project, nothing more. I just bought a new blade engagement cable, so we are almost ready to mow.

Rivets posted a carb number and when shopping online, some of those inexpensive carbs showed up, many with prime buttons. After thinking about it some, IF that carb were to physically fit and either properly jetted for the 13hp OR if it had an ajustable high speed jet, a prime button wouldnt be a bad thing actually. I do check the oil an under the hood b4 each mow anyways so I may as well prime it while under the hood.

I would buy one right now if i knew it would physically fit.

Later-