Dixon ztr transmission issues

Found a picture of fill hole. circled in red and arrow pointing to it.

Ok Ill look for that. Meanwhile I have the mower jacked up. I am a bit confused and suspect that you already knew that, but if i understand you right I should move the free wheel levers to free wheel. I am assuming that is done by pulling out on the rods in the back that re used for transport. if so when I do the wheels are locked and that doesn't seem right to me since you say to move free wheel levers to free wheel. Also assume that these are the rods to use because the exhausts are right there close.

Yes pull them out so the wheels turn easier.

You can buy brand new hydros for $230 each plus shipping. I think it was $20 shipping. 4 bolts to the frame and 2 or 3 bolts from one hydro to the other. Easy to do it yourself.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands...-LEFT-HYDROSTATIC-ZTR-TRANSAXLE-13-1519-L.axd

Wheels do not turn when rods are engaged to the frame but do move (whit a bit of resistance when brake is disengaged. So Not sure here.

Your diagram isn't quite the same as my parts list manual. the only thing I see similar to your diagram is a vent hose in that vicinity.

do we have the right model. speedztr 48 / 966698601.

the pumps from surplus center do look like mine.

The diagram I gave you is from the manufacturer of the drives not from Husqvarna so it'll be a stripped-down version of it.
To get the wheels to free wheel take break off pull both rod's out in back.

surplus website picture, the hex plug right next to the black vent tube it the check fluid and fill port.

Ok, I can feel it but can't see it, so, with my age 76 and abilities there is no way that i can do this. End of adventure I guess. I did do the purge and it wasn't any different. Actually had trouble putting it back in the shed on a slight bump. Backed it out an hour later to look at pump and it drove right in with no problem. So I'm done I guess.
Thanks again but I'm not able to do this myself and not sure it would be worth the expense of probably two pumps. Dealers are telling me $750 each and I've seen those prices on line , but they then say the trade in value of $500 to $700 would not change and not worth sticking $1000 into it.

Here's another tidbit I came across suggesting air again..

What BlazNT suggested earlier about the air is that he thinks you may have mowed on an incline too great for the system which may have injected some air into the lines. The drive is not filled to the brim with oil, and thus retains some air, but this air shouldn't enter the system unless it's pushed too far somehow. For example, your power steering reservoir in your vehicle. If you loosen the cap you will see that it's not 100% full, but probably more like 75. If you tipped that tank over enough, the air would reach the supply tube and then you would have a noisy PS pump, which can be purged much like this method here, by rocking the steering fully 1 way and back the other several times. You wouldn't have to open or take anything apart to get that trapped air where it shouldn't be.

PURGING PROCEDURES
Due to the effects air has on efficiency in hydro static drive applications, it is critical that it is purged from the system.
These purge procedures should be implemented any time a hydro static system has been opened to facilitate maintenance or any additional oil has been added to the system.
Air creates inefficiency because its compression and expansion rate is higher than that of the oil approved for use in hydro static drive systems.
The resulting symptoms in hydro static systems may be:
1. Noisy operation.
2. Lack of power or drive after short term operation.
3. High operation temperature and excessive expansion of oil.
Before starting, make sure the trans-axle/trans- mission is at the proper oil level. If it is not, fill to the specifications outlined on Page 9, Figure 4.
The following procedures should be performed with the vehicle drive wheels off the ground, then repeated under normal operating conditions.
1.With the bypass valve open and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 or 6 times), as air is purged from the unit, the oil level will drop.
2.With the bypass valve closed and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 to 6 times). Check the oil level, and add oil as required after stopping the engine.
3.It may be necessary to repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all the air is completely purged from the system. When the trans-axle moves for- ward and reverse at normal speed purging is complete.

All of these symptoms seem to be plaguing you.

Happen to know anyone, friend or relative that may have some minor mechanical knowledge and could come help you check. These transmissions should get pretty decent hours in a residential setting, a little less in a high acreage farm application. I hate for you to trade the mower if it's something you can fix, but if you have had this one for a while and maybe just don't want to deal with issues down the road, it could be time to trade. Not only for the warranty options but the convenience of having a local dealer who will service it.

If you do decide to trade, let us know what your local dealer carries and we will help you with any information you need on the purchase of a new one.