Aftermarket deck belts

Ronno6

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Having gone through a steep learning curve while attempting to use aftermarket mower drive belts (never again..)
I have queries about deck drive belts in MTD tractor/mowers.

Are the MTD brand belts superior to aftermarket belts for deck/spindle drive purposes?
If the use of aftermarket belts is satisfactory for decks/spindles, which are better than others?
PIX ? Sterns? Rotary? Oregon? Others ??

As deck drive belts are considerably easier to replace than mower drive belts, some shorter lifespan belts
can be considered if the $$$$ difference is appreciable.

What is the popular learned opinion on the topic?
 

Carscw

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With mtd you have to use mtd belts on the drive. They have there own pitch.

The deck belts I get at tractor supply.
Most deck belts on mtd go to the half inch I go with the ones a half inch smaller.
 

bertsmobile1

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There are aftermarket belts and there are aftermarket belts.

MTD in particular and Murray used belts that are not the standard M (3/8") A (1/2") & B (5/8") cross sections or have different Height to width ratio.
Some aftermarket belts are exactly the same as they are made in the same factory the only difference being the colour of the cotton cover.
Usually from companies like Oregon , Rotary, Stens , Thermoid and Gates these are marked with the OEM part numbers they are direct replacement for.
However because these are not standard sizes or length they have low volume production so at best 2/3 the price of a machine branded belt.

Then there are belts that will fit around the pulleys and get marketed as "aftermarket replacements ".
You can get away with using a std B ( 5/8") section to replace a CUB CADET 21/32" section belt, however it will sit 1/4" deeper in the pulley V groove which is the equivalent position of an original belt that is worn 1/2 way through it's full service life. Because it is sitting deeper in the pulleys it will be slacker so it will have to be a flea's fart shorter to run at the same tension.

Then there are things like the size and placement of the reinforcement chords.
If a belt has to go through a couple of 180 deg bends, it needs really thin chords that are a little deeper towards the middle of the belt.
If it twists then it needs thin chords that are almost at the outside of the back of the belt.
If it gets very high shock loads it needs thick chords.

When I started out, belts was the hardest thing to get my head around.
I would often find my suppliers had 3 or more belts that were all the same exterior sizes but drastically different prices.
Eventually I found out this was because they had different rubber coumponds and different chord size & placement.

The big problem is Greedy George packs his suitcase with 30 of the most expensive mower belts then hops on a jet to China, Belaruse etc etc etc.
He goes to I fool You manufacturing , plomps the belts on the table with instruction to make 10,000 of each belt that look exactly the same as cheap as possible.
So they make exact external copies using junk rubber, cheap cotton or pollyester chords and usually a polly cotton cover.
Greedy George leaves the brothel he has been staying in for a week and takes his 300,000 counterfit belts to the shipping companies , flys back to the US, OZ, where ever then sells his garbage into the wholesale market and you end up buying them from a discount tool store, Evilbay, Amazon etc for 1/4 the price of the genuine belt.
Wholesale belts are shipped in slings with no markings other than what is on the belt itself. It is the distributor or retailer who puts the sleeve on the belt with the consummer information.
 

Boobala

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bertsmobile is right ..... MTD & MURRAY are two brands of machines that work PROPERLY & reliably with O.E.M. belts, the extra money is worth it. I get my Murray ( Briggs&Stratton owned now ) from (repairclinic.com) You can find belts at other parts houses cheaper than the manufacterer just be sure to call and verify authenticity. Boobala:smile:
 

Ronno6

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Thanks for the replies, guys.
Seems that I am getting mixed signals here,though, unless my comprehension is askew...

From what I read:
OEM is always the best choice.
OEM part numbered belts from "manufacturers" such as Stens,Oregon,Rotary, etc. are to be considered equal to or the same as OEM..(?)
Avoid those that are marketed as "replacement for" OEM from other manufacturers if they do not carry the OEM part # ..(?)
Industrial V-belts are NOT direct interchanges.

I am prone to use PIX belts, at least for the deck.
I will continue to use Genuine MTD belts for the drive, as changing them is so involved.
Unless I should be reading OEM as meaning belts by Stens, PIX,Rotary, etc as OEM belts ??

I guess I DO tend to overthink these things...
 

jekjr

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I think that you will find that the sheaves are slightly different in pitch on those mowers than the belts you find aftermarket. Therefore they do not match correctly. I have always been told that they do that purposely so that you have to buy the OEM belts to get correct fit.
 

atonys

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I have bought replacement deck spindle and drive belts at TSC, Rural King, and Lowe's. The biggest thing I have found is to just be cautious not to get the basic rubber belts without the impregnated cording present. Those belts will wear out quick. As long as I have taken my original belt(s) with me to the store, they have a belt measuring gage that matches the size I need. As long as I match length and make certain to only buy cord reinforced belts, they last me for many seasons, no matter the brand on the package. In fact, I have had an off-brand deck spindle belt on my MTD for ten plus years and it is still going strong.
 

ralphvladeck

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Having gone through a steep learning curve while attempting to use aftermarket mower drive belts (never again..)
I have queries about deck drive belts in MTD tractor/mowers.

Are the MTD brand belts superior to aftermarket belts for deck/spindle drive purposes?
If the use of aftermarket belts is satisfactory for decks/spindles, which are better than others?
PIX ? Sterns? Rotary? Oregon? Others ??

As deck drive belts are considerably easier to replace than mower drive belts, some shorter lifespan belts
can be considered if the $$$$ difference is appreciable.

What is the popular learned opinion on the topic?
Hi Ron,

There is a little of everything out there when it comes to aftermarket belts good and bad. I never buy original belts simply because I don't care mucho about the name brand on the belt as long as they are good and I'm not willing to pay 3 to 5 times more just for a name label on the belt. That being said, I only buy aftermarket belts with warranty. No body who is selling a bad product will offer you a warranty and if they do it and they don't really support what they sell you will find lots of complains when looking for the company online. I've been buying my belts from this company www.gprindustrial.com and so far I have never any problem with their products.
 

Born2Mow

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So they make exact external copies using junk rubber, cheap cotton or polyester chords and usually a polly cotton cover. Greedy George leaves the brothel he has been staying in for a week and takes his 300,000 counterfeit belts to the shipping companies, flies back to the US, OZ, where ever then sells his garbage into the wholesale market and you end up buying them from a discount tool store, Evilbay, Amazon etc for 1/4 the price of the genuine belt.
Bertsmobile is correct. He did stay in a brothel for a week ! :ROFLMAO:
 
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