Honda H2013 blade shaft bearings

The 38" deck on my H2013 caused the tractor to stall. I removed the deck and found the blade shafts were hard to turn, probably bad bearings. I notice there are two bearings for each blade shaft, an upper and lower... Why are there two different part numbers for bearing that seem to have the same dimensions, 20mm x 47mm x 14mm? Can I use generic bearings (type 6204) to replace both upper and lower shaft bearings?

Thanks

Al.C said:

The 38" deck on my H2013 caused the tractor to stall. I removed the deck and found the blade shafts were hard to turn, probably bad bearings. I notice there are two bearings for each blade shaft, an upper and lower... Why are there two different part numbers for bearing that seem to have the same dimensions, 20mm x 47mm x 14mm? Can I use generic bearings (type 6204) to replace both upper and lower shaft bearings?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Yes..

The full number for that bottom spindle bearing is 91055-752-831 and is a common 6204-2RS ball bearing. Honda calls it out as different because the bearing has two rubber seals (2RS).

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/hpe/505ce820f870022d24be0443/blade-shaft

just information

If there is a spacer on the spindle shaft or a shoulder at both ends the the bearings will be the same.
A lot of spindle assemblies use a double seal a the top and a single seal at the bottom.
Honda have a habit of fitting a shielded bearing ( metal seal ) at one end and a rubber seal at the other.

Al.C said:

The 38" deck on my H2013 caused the tractor to stall. I removed the deck and found the blade shafts were hard to turn, probably bad bearings. I notice there are two bearings for each blade shaft, an upper and lower... Why are there two different part numbers for bearing that seem to have the same dimensions, 20mm x 47mm x 14mm? Can I use generic bearings (type 6204) to replace both upper and lower shaft bearings?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Thanks again to those who answered my questions about bearings. I went ahead and ordered a generic set and replaced top and bottom bearings of both blade spindles. Watching a couple of Youtube videos helped as did the exploded parts view of the assembly. Here are the basic steps I followed:

Removal of shaft bearings on Honda 38" mower deck (H2013 lawn tractor)

1- From top of deck remove splined blade spindle pulleys (may be optional)
2- From underside of deck remove blade bolt and blade assembly
3- From underside of deck remove splined blade holder
4- Drive splined spindle out of bearing housing toward pulley side of deck
5- Remove bearings and spacer from spindle housing

Because the spindle is flanged at the top, it can only be removed from one side. Removal of the pulleys from the spindles and removal of the spindle housings from the deck was not required, but the pulleys were removed to facilitate parts cleaning. Separating parts was difficult due to some rusting together of spindle and bearings, and spindle and blade holder. I needed to use an impact driver, penetrating oil, heat (propane torch), a gear puller, a hammer, a chisel or drift pin, and patience. After cleaning up the spindles I lightly coated them with grease before reassembly. I used a large ratchet wrench socket the same OD as the new bearings to drive them into the spindle housing. After reassembly, the spindles now turn freely!

I don't know anything about those mowers but is there a grease fitting on the spindle? If you have them all torn down for bearing replacement you might think about adding one if not already there. Drill and tap, add grease nipple and then you can grease the bearings as needed. I guess you would need to use unsealed bearings or remove the seal from the inside of each bearing.
Tom

Pumper54 said:

I don't know anything about those mowers but is there a grease fitting on the spindle? If you have them all torn down for bearing replacement you might think about adding one if not already there. Drill and tap, add grease nipple and then you can grease the bearings as needed. I guess you would need to use unsealed bearings or remove the seal from the inside of each bearing.
Tom

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion. These spindle housings do not have grease fittings since they are designed to carry sealed bearings. If the inner bearing seals are removed and a grease fitting added, how do you know when enough grease is added? I wouldn't want to blow out the outer seals by pumping in too much grease. This deck is probably 20+ years old. The replaced bearings were marked Japan, so they may have been original... If so, the sealed bearings I installed may well outlast me!

It is not so much a lubrication thing as an exclusion of water thing.
Domestic mowers rarely come with grease nipples and some one told me they contravine California EPA regulations as grease can drip out into your grass.
As yours have gone this far without extra grease I would not worry about it.
The important thing is you fitted brand name bearings bought from a reputiable supplier.
If not then look foreward to doing it again in a few seasons.

The most common fake item from China is not Rolex watches, it is bearings complete with major manufacturers brand names .
Nearly always sold on line from what looks like a professional bearing supplier.
So if buying on line make sure the web site has a street address listed, then go a google earth / maps street view to check they are real.

bertsmobile1 said:

......As yours have gone this far without extra grease I would not worry about it.
The important thing is you fitted brand name bearings bought from a reputiable supplier.
If not then look foreward to doing it again in a few seasons......

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Your suggestion makes a lot of sense, but the bearings I used are low cost ones, <$15 for a package of 10. For comparison, Nachi bearings from Japan run ~$10 each and SKF bearings cost ~$20 each. Honda parts run $15-19 each. I am not expecting a lot from the sealed bearings I used, but if they last a couple of seasons that will work for me. With the spindles now cleaned up and lubed I expect (hope) disassembly next time will go very quickly (easy job).... let's see how long they last.

Not a good idea.
There is a reason why the real bearings are so expensive to buy.
High quality bearings are expensive to make properly.

I would very strongly suggest you reconsider running the deck with those low end bearings installed.
You will be lucky if they last a single mow let alone a few seasons.
Bearings are made in standard sizes but not standard qualities.
Just because it fits in the hole does not mean it is the right bearing.
Deck bearings are deep grove, high angular contact , high speed, high load bearings.
The same sized bearings go into a wheelbarrow and those are the bearings that you have bought.

Keep an ear out for funny sounds as cheap bearings usually break up in no time flat then the blades flail around smashing into the deck and each other , breaking the housing and even chopping lumps out of the deck itself.