Transmission

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waffler

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I have 2007 Yardman model # 13BP605H755
The transmission will only go backwards . Put it in forward and it just grinds . Transmission was very noisy when it was working . I have removed axle from mower and stripped it down ,and it looks good to me . Not checked diff yet as I haven't had time to clean it . Could it be some part in the diff causing the problem .:confused2: :anyone:
 
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bertsmobile1

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waffler said:
I have 2007 Yardman model # 13BP605H755
The transmission will only go backwards . Put it in forward and it just grinds . Transmission was very noisy when it was working . I have removed axle from mower and stripped it down ,and it looks good to me . Not checked diff yet as I haven't had time to clean it . Could it be some part in the diff causing the problem .:confused2: :anyone:
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:welcome:
If that is the model with a real gear box, not a hydro it will be the foreward gear and dog.
if you check then closely and compare with the reverse you will see the edges are quite rounded.
If you flip the sliding dog and swap the forward & reverse crown gears it will drive fine foreward and be a bit iffy in reverse.
If you slip another thrust washer between the reverse ( old foreward ) abd te side of the box it will usually work OK but not as good as replacing the dog & gear.
 
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bertsmobile1

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I think Mike has it wrong.
If the belts were gone it would not go in either direction.
The rod that you use to change foreward, Neutral & reverse moves a sliding dog in the transaxle.
The dog has rounded off as will have the crown gear for foreward.
It is very common and is considered as normal wear & tear.
However lazy use by not using the clutch/brake to fully stop before changing F , N or R will wear it a lot quicker.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/mtd/yard-man/13-lawn-tractors/2007-models/13bp605h755-2007/transmission-assembly-618-04034

In the diagram above it is part numbers :-
15 = bevel gear ( i called this crown gear ) replace the forward one.
16 = Clutch collar ( sliding dog ) replace it.
4 = Thrust washer ( replace both of them as they wear thin )
 
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gainestruk

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Bertsmobile I bet you are right, I just quick read his post and I just now realized it said grinding sound when he puts it in forward :confused2:
Waffler you do still need to replace belts and check variator pully for wear also, with all that you will be going like new afterwards.
 
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waffler

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was cleaning the axle yesterday so i could see the cogs in the diff and the shaft on the one side looks like it is about to break off where it is attached will try to get some pictures
 
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bertsmobile1

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If you pull the diff & axels out of the case they will flop about everywhere.
There is not much holding the axel in and it is not uncommon to rip the axel right out when trying to remove the rear wheels.
The diff gears can break but that is very very rare.
Remember it is a differential so it's prime function is to break the axel and allow one side to turn faster than the other.

Some one here Boobola I think posted a link to the Tecumseh manual a while back.
Different models but the same principles.
 
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