electric pto clutch.

fastback

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I noticed that no one has mentioned the bearings. I have had to replace the bearings in the PTO on my 96 Craftsman. The bearings get rusted from the moisture and tend to seize on the shaft. I wonder if the bearings are semi-seized on the shaft and release after a period of run time. The best thing to do is remove the PTO and check it out. This has been a problem on my tractor. The first PTO was completely distroyed. The second PTO is checked from time to time and I replace the bearings as necessary. I got a little extra use out of a set by drilling into the bearing seal (very small holes) two in all and forcing in grease with a needle grease fitting on the grease gun. You pump in one hole until the grease comes out the other.

This may or may not be the problem, but it's worth a check.
 

dadkaz70

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My issue is what appears to be pto clutch failure, but only seems to happen when hot. Does that make any sense? Acts the same when direct wired to battery.

Having a similar problem with an Exmark lazer z hp. Ran for 1--17 minutes, then the pto shuts down. Let cool---goes again until next time. Anybody have any ides?
 

Eyeball

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My issue is what appears to be pto clutch failure, but only seems to happen when hot. Does that make any sense? Acts the same when direct wired to battery.

It sounds like an intermittant short in the electric clutch. Is that is the case, get your checkbook out. I don't know what kind of electric clutch you have, but you can take an ohm meter and check the coil resistance. I am having clutch problems right now myself. My clutch reads .2 ohms, when it should be between 2.4 - 3.4 ohms. .2 ohms is almost a short and it will kill your engine.
 

freetown fred

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Yes, that is correct.
Thanx alvindale--sorry for time lapse :laughing:--toggle switch works fine. NOW, if we ever get some rain, :rolleyes: Had a real good first cut hay wise but 2nd, I got nothing to speak of. Good news--it's been raing steady all night:biggrin:
 

dadkaz70

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It sounds like an intermittant short in the electric clutch. Is that is the case, get your checkbook out. I don't know what kind of electric clutch you have, but you can take an ohm meter and check the coil resistance. I am having clutch problems right now myself. My clutch reads .2 ohms, when it should be between 2.4 - 3.4 ohms. .2 ohms is almost a short and it will kill your engine.

I'm sure your problem is also the electric clutch. Seems to be a common problem in these "high end mowers." If you look, you can find a replacement for under $200. There is a lot of info out there. Good luck.
 

jsr

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maybe a dumb question, but can an electric clutch fail in engaged position?
 

jsr

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Found problems,I hope.

I found broken springs on pulley plate. Replaced it with one from an old clutch I had replaced 2 years ago. I also replaced the battery and checked and cleaned all electrical contacts I could think of. Reinstalled clutch and it started working. Don't know which was the true fix. Now I just need to let plates burnish in. I am glad I found the Forum, and I really appreciate the help. jsr
 

motoman

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Is there a current figure during lockup? How much does the ?magnetic clutch? draw when operating properly? Seems that would be a good running measure to have. Also we know e.g., motors which are receiving insufficient voltage can burn up so seems a PTO not receiving enough voltage could slip itself to death?? A person could use a VOM to check this?
 

bertsmobile1

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Is there a current figure during lockup? How much does the ?magnetic clutch? draw when operating properly? Seems that would be a good running measure to have. Also we know e.g., motors which are receiving insufficient voltage can burn up so seems a PTO not receiving enough voltage could slip itself to death?? A person could use a VOM to check this?
Fairly easy to do.
Hook up an ammeter on the + feed to the clutch.
Clutches will pull 5 A to 15 A depending upon model when cold & go by anything as much as 20% when they get hot
 
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