Kawasaki FR691V compatibility

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This is my first post here on the forum so let me start out by saying "howdy folks, thanks for having me"; and apologizing if I'm asking something that's already been covered. I kinda did a quick look around for an answer, but didn't find it and don't seem to know the right string of words to find it with the search feature.

I was wondering about compatibility between FR691V models. My Hustler FasTrak has the FR691V CS14R. There are several FR691V models listed and I was told by one engine sales company that the engine is the same and the suffix to the engine number is specific to the manufacturer and really just determines the size of the shaft.

I have 88 hours on my mower and I bought it 7/31/14 and it's burning a lot of oil. It's in the shop now and it sounds like they're gonna do a compression check to see if the rings are bad or the cylinder walls are scored. They found a lot of dirt in the intake and are trying to say I haven't taken care of the air filter. Also, I use the Rotary aftermarket filters that my uncle gives me. He has a lawn mower/ small engine repair shop next door to me and works on this stuff all the time (I took mine to the dealer because it's under warranty). At any rate, the manual says clean the air filter every so many hours (I don't pay attention to that since I remove it and blow it out with a compressor every time I finish mowing) and change every 200 hours. I just put my 4th air filter in this mower, they are free to me.......I walk over to my uncles shop and get it, no charge.......same with the oil filters. He does charge me 21 bucks for a set of blades.

It seems to all be coming down, for now anyway, to me having done poor maintenance or they think I might have run it low on oil. My fault either way. I'm just wondering, in a worse case scenario how all the 691V variants swap out with each other. If I wind up having to buy a replacement engine, how would I know what is compatible with mine?

Thanks so much,
Rodney
 

sjessen

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88 hours is nothing! That is about the same as 8,000 miles on an auto engine. If you have put 4 air filters on it in that amount of time it is hard to believe you are not doing proper maintenance.
 

Mad Mackie

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Rodney, I have a few questions for you.
Have you read and understood the recommendations found in the operators manual?
Particularly where is states "do not use pressurized air to clean paper element"!!!!
Do you understand the engine oil recommendations in the operators manual?
Do you understand how to correctly check the engine oil level?
I am not trying to insult you, just attempting to get to the source of your engine problem.
However, your already expressed maintenance procedures are problematic to say the least.
A few thoughts from a retired mech.
 

motoman

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I am assuming the filter discussed is a paper element. If so, the groundrule against air pressure is it will drive and pack the dirt in, not remove it, even if directed in the "proper" direction. The only thing I do with my Intek cartridge is tap it on a flat surface , paper filter "fins" down. Then I give it the daylight test , holding up to the light . Even if light shows I make a further judgement of how clogged/dirty it is. To me the condition of the thin, green, oiled pre-filter is also a clue. After "mowing" in a dirty, dusty area where I am eating dust I often just change the air filter. Although $15 a pop it is cheap insurance as "dust" is an abrasive which can quickly destroy the cylinder and piston rings. After changing to a fresh air filter I can usually hear the engine running smoother, thanking me. The way the filter is seated is also important. The Intek filter has apparently caused a lot of problems because it can appear being properly seated when it is not. I usually also poke a finger into the intake to see if there is a coating. Even if a coating feels very fine, consider auto wax cleaner or glasstop stove cleaner and what they do to surfaces.:thumbsup:
 
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I went back and re-read my post, that was kind of confusing; I should have done a better job proofreading.
I blow the whole mower off with my air compressor when I get finished mowing, I used to wash it but was told that it was really best to just blow it off with air. I do blow out that little foam pre filter with the air hose, but the paper filter I just tap around on until dirt stops falling out of it. I don't know of any way to do a visual inspection to tell when one needs to be replaced or not, whenever they reached a point that they looked like they weren't coming clean when I would shake them out I just replaced them. I have been told to oil that foam pre-filter by some people and not to by other people.... that didn't even come on it from the factory anyway, but it seemed like I shouldn't put oil on it to me because it was going against a paper filter. I just used it dry.
When I check the oil, I do it per instructions on the dipstick (NOT threaded in). I bought oil according to the chart in the book for the temperature range I expected to be operating the mower in.
I drive an 18 wheeler for a living, and have since 1993.... I'm pretty familiar with pre-trip inspection since it's a legal requirement of my job. I am absolutely not a mechanic, I'm a driver.... but fluid checks and pm/service etc... seem like something I don't even think about, it's just part of everyday life for me.
 
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This whole thread is bringing back memories from around 1976-77; my dad actually took the belt off a tiller and beat me until my legs were nearly raw ( CPS would have him under the jail for that these days). I was 10 or 11 and thought I was being helpful when I filled that tiller with oil.........I figured out if I'd tilt it over so that the oil fill hole was level I could get more oil in it.....and I did. I sure knew he was gonna be proud when he opened that cap and oil was to the top. It was beyond to the top, it came pouring out.........the whoopin' commenced shortly thereafter with us doing the circle dance and him telling me more oil was as bad as no oil.....I learned to check the oil before I cranked anything. Maybe more kids could use some of that these days, pain is a helluva teacher!!! :wink:
 

tbarnett

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To heck with the dealer, with only 88 hours and less than 2 years of ownership, I'd contact Kawasaki directly and tell them what the dealer is trying to pull on you.
 

Mad Mackie

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Hi Rodney,
Now we are getting somewhere!!
The Kawasaki parts manual doesn't show a foam prefilter for your engine.
The Rotary aftermarket air filter P/N 12758 doesn't show it either.
Tapping the air filter is the best way to clean it, however it actually filters dirt better when somewhat dirty.
I judge air filter replacement by looking at the whiteness of the interior of the filter compared to a new one. When the interior starts to darken slightly, then I replace it.
There is inlet piping on your engine that connects the spout of the air filter to the inlet of the carb, is this area OK and secure?
Usually the crankcase breather pipe is connected to the filtered air side of the incoming air. If this pipe is not correctly installed, then dirty air will get into the engine. Using compressed air in the wrong place can blow the breather pipe/tube out of place. I clean my machines with compressed air and I have dislodged the breather tube on my Scag ZTR with a Briggs Commercial Turf engine. Didn't notice it until I saw an oily film accumulating around the area. So when I blow off the machine I avoid that area of the engine.
There may very well be a problem with your engine that you did not cause or contribute to.
After your dealer evaluates the engine, I would call Kawasaki direct regardless of what the dealers diagnosis happens to be.
As for replacement engine information, the spec number of your engine is related to the machine manufacturers requirements. Replacement engines are more generic in their spec numbers although certain spec numbers are a direct replacement for your engine.
The crankshaft length and diameter being the primary concern.
Kawasaki makes three models of the 691V engine. FR691V being the lowest level, FS691V being next and the FX691V being the top of the line. The FX engines have a two stage HD air filtration system as standard equipment. You can go the Kawasaki small engine website and check them out.
Let us know what your dealer diagnosis is.:rolleyes::eek:
 
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The foam pre-filter was one my uncle gave me....he told me it would give a little extra protection. I'm usually pretty careful when blowing, but I do cup the opening of the air inlet hose to block anything from being blown down there.....I take the filter off to be able to clean that area......it's totally possible that I dislodged it with my hand not realizing it. I usually tighten the clamp back around the filter pretty good. They were supposed to do the compression leak down test today but didn't, I'm kind of losing patience with them. They've had it two weeks.
I have decided that IF I have to replace the engine, I'll go back with the FX series just for the extra filtration offered in the canister filter. I've found the 1" X 80mm model that corresponds to my current engine.
It's sandy here, I'm painfully aware of that, I thought I was doing good by changing those filters more often and trying to clean them after every use.

I appreciate all the replies and will follow up after hearing from the dealer.

As a side note, the young lady working on my mower told me early on she was out of her element with this issue and seeking help via phone calls with Kawasaki tech. I think she's overwhelmed to tell the truth. The dealer I bought it from has three locations but it seems the others don't want to help her out. I think I'll probably call Kawasaki tomorrow and seek some council on how to proceed. The lady is real nice, but honestly.......my uncle would have had this out of his shop days ago. He's NOT a warranty shop, and that's the ONLY reason I didn't take it to him.

Again, thanks so much guys; I really appreciate all the help,
Rodney
 
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